Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Herb Laeger & Herb Saume, April 1978
Page Views: 1,007 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 29, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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14 Opinions

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Description

This route is about at the mid-point of the south face and gets sun most of the day in the winter.

Walk to the west slightly from Bat Crack to find a brown bulge about 4 meters off of the ground. Some chalk may help highlight the line that ascends up dark plates (more solid than they look) under the right hand side of the roof, then up and left on good clings. Power up and left to go under the roof into a good jam and to good protection (hand-sized cam) and finish in the crack. A few jugs pepper the crack above to make the climbing easier and fun.

Rap from the bolted anchor on the ledge above.

Protection

A set of nuts and a set of cams to 3"

Photos

Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.10b
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.10b
Very fun overhanging hand crack. Perfect jams and perfect gear--if only it were longer! Bring a small cam (yellow metolious/green alien) for placing in the small horizontal crack, protecting the move into the overhanging handcrack. Apr 24, 2006
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b
Since I was last on this route a good, albeit thin "horn" has broken off at the start of the crack. Seemed a bit harder than before when it was rated 10a. Dec 11, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
Decent climbing, but it's very short - even by JT standards. Jan 16, 2007