Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: John Wolfe and Howard Weamer, June 1969; FFA: John Long and
Page Views: 12,376 total · 60/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Jun 20, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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You can start it either with the first pitch of Overhang Bypass (from the right) or with it's original first pitch (up the north side). Either way, you end up in the obvious scoop on the righthand side of the north face. Instead of heading right as you do for Overhang, climb up into the left side of the scoop, clipping a couple of (hopefully replaced by now) bolts. Lock on the crack and swing up and around the corner into the steep hand crack that angles up and left to the summit. This move is quite exciting, but a classic!


Pro on this is pretty good; 2 bolts and take some small-medium-large cams and nuts and you're good.
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
I was at the base of double cross and i saw a guy break his ankle on the crux of this route. From what we could see he didnt fall too far but must have hit his foot on the slab below the steep and angling crux. Be sure to protect this. The resulting rescue took over 3 hours even though they were less than a ropelength from the ground. What a huge difference self-rescue knowledge would have made...casey bernal Jul 9, 2002
dont let the exposure from the roof get your head its five nine i clipped the bolts under the roof and ran for it the holds are wicked deep Oct 10, 2003
I almost didn't get on this route due to the other comments about the bolts and broken ankle, but I decided that it looked safe and I think this route is very safe so long as you keep your cool when you turn the corner. Although the bolts arn't warm and fuzzy, there is no sign of rust and they haven't pulled out of the rock at all. The crack protects perfectly, and as for the slab below this is one of the most vertical moderates at J-tree. I think this was one of the best climbs I did and I'm glad I didn't skip it because of the above comment. Feb 1, 2004
Bo Johnston  
How can one avoid all the rope drag on this one??? Feb 7, 2005
We came up the north face (nw corner?), after doing lower right ski track (but you can scramble up to this start). From there, it can be done without setting a belay in the alcove. Then clip the bolts, but don't place any other gear in the alcove, and the rope will pretty much run straight down that east face to your belayer with no drag. I didn't place any gear after turning the corner. By the time I felt secure enough to stop for gear, I was only a move or two away from relative safety. Heady! Feb 7, 2005
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
Remember to protect your second beyond the crux moves. Placing no gear in the diagonal crack after the corner will set them up for a big swing if they come off at the crux.

There is a lone bolt on the summit just about directly above the crux that can easily be accessed once you've topped out. Seems like you could use this as a directional if you didn't get a chance to throw in a cam below.

Not sure why that bolt is there? Dec 30, 2005
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
I fell at the crux leading the climb Sunday. The bolt held. I was right at it when I fell, trying to get established in the crack.

A lot of rope stretched but the slab was still a good safe distance below me. Nov 20, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
It's hard to believe that people free solo this route. Getting out from under the roof with the no right foot and mediocore left foot is completely sketch. If you're nervous about the bolts and protecting the move (like I was) you can put a cam in but it clogs the crack where your handjam would be. Not only for you, but your second.

After leading it today, it certainly looks like once you get established into the crack and can put some positive weight on your left foot, you're golden. Forget the pro and just go!

Susan Feb 25, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
The north side start is awkward flake-humping, the O-Bypass start may be a better option. We did it as one pitch from the ledge, but have seen people belay in the alcove just right of the bolts. There are two bolts just before the crux. The top bolt is complete junk, I didn't bother clipping it because you can wiggle the stud back and forth in the hole and it's pointing down, so a fall would be a "pull" rather than "shear" type force..it should probably be chopped. The bottom one is good enough (although the hanger is a spinner and does look way beat from who knows how many whippers). Mar 2, 2007
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
Kind of a fun, exposed one-move wonder. Still worthwhile and a striking line to look at from the campground.

The two bolts are very close together (approx 2 feet) and given their appearance (look like SMC hangers?) should be replaced with one modern one. This would not only make the route safer, but would help eliminate the rope drag caused by clipping the higher bolt with too short of a quickdraw. Any concensus? Mar 25, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Here's the ultra-cool-no-rope-drag way to send North Overhang.

Launch into the starting flake, protect as you see fit but use long slings on everything. Once you make the 5.7 step left out of the flake, DO NOT PLACE ANY MORE PRO. Zip all the way up to the alcove just right of the bolts protecting the crux (75'). Yes you'll die if you fall, but the climbing is super easy. Clipping the bolts is a little scary without pro facing a 100' fall, so you can place some temporary protection before clipping the bolts. Reach left and clip the bolts with long slings, and add a nut or small cam if you want it. Remove your temporary protection. Flip the rope off the slab. Voila.... a perfectly running rope!

Then send the move! Be sure to go up a few moves after the crux before placing any additional gear or your second will curse you.

If you want your second to love you, don't place any gear in the diagonal (or remove it once your safe) and use the lone bolt as a directional/anchor (you can use the rope to extend your anchor to the rap chains). These two steps will keep the rope out of the crack for your second. Apr 18, 2008
The bolts appeared fine last week. Very exciting to reach out from under a roof, into a crack and face.

Clip the last bolt for your 2nd. I climbed the route as a 2nd and had a horrible time keeping the rope out of the crack where my hands needed to go. The high & random bolt near the end was probably placed just for your follower. Feb 23, 2009
Adam Leavy
Asheville, NC
Adam Leavy   Asheville, NC
Hello! I replaced the bolts to this wonderful ditty on 12/30/2010. Good to go!! Two nice camo metolius hangers. Only a hanger swap. bolts are just fine! Hanger not so much.... Feb 1, 2011
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
Clip the lower bolt, skip the upper bolt, and clip the directional bolt on the summit. Oct 22, 2011
Jace Mullen
Oceanside, Ca
Jace Mullen   Oceanside, Ca
Extend the bolts (both upper and lower OR just lower) or you're going to have a bad time. A cam to keep it out of the crack would also be nice idea. I Jan 6, 2015
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Dimes   Joshua Tree, Ca.
Both bolts below the overhang were replaced by the ASCA with 1/2" stainless steel bolts and rock colored stainless steel hangers on 8-23-16. Please support the ASCA so this kind of work can continue. Thanks Aug 23, 2016
brian burke
santa monica, ca
brian burke   santa monica, ca
i was expecting this to be quite scary, but with the nice bolts and potential for good cams after pulling around to the crack, the whole thing seemed very g-rated. go for it! Nov 5, 2017