Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Al Ruiz and Rich Wolfe 1966, FFA: John Long 9/72
Page Views: 13,118 total · 47/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 14, 2001
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

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Description Suggest change

This description is only for Lower Right Ski Track. Upper Right Ski Track is listed independently on this site due to the frequency with which people traverse on to it and skip Lower Right Ski Track.

On intersection Rock, there are three main cracks running diagonally up and left from the base. These are visible from the North side (from the Hidden Valley Campground) and are called, from right to left, Right Ski Track, Left Ski Track, and Half Track. These are plainly visible in the photograph below.

Lower Right Ski Track is the Right-most of the three climbs, and starts as a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral. The crux comes about 20 or 25' from the ground at a bolt just below a bulge. Climb up the crack for a few easy moves and head upward and left. Clipping the bolt can be done from well below and right, and thus you will be well protected for a bit of time. The crux comes after you climb some short distance above the bolt, so a fall could produce a real lead-fall, not just a hang. This may potentially come complete with a considerable swing depending on what position you are in and how alert your belayer is, but severe injury seems unlikely.

After passing the crux, you will likely be standing in a stem at the bottom of a bulge. I was able to place a Camalot (#3, I believe) up into a pod in the dihedral prior to making one more hard move. This is an awkward stance to place from, but the choice is yours.

From there, continue up well protected and more moderate climbing to a small ledge that comes in from the right. Belay on this ledge (good gear up and left in the crack) and then walk off to the west, or continue up Upper Right Ski Track (5.5) to the summit.

Protection Suggest change

The route is reasonably protected, but not so well that you can hang-dog the route. The crux is protected by a bolt and a few additional hard moves (when you are pumped)protect on hand-sized cams. All in all, take a single set of nuts, and a set of Camalots. A large piece (#4 cam or #10 hex) might be useful at the belay or if you intend to continue on Upper Right Ski Track.

Photos

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