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> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Intersection Rock
> Intersection Rock (W…
Traverse of No Return
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Intersection Rock (West and South Faces)
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Bat Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Beginner's Three T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Billabong T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bongledesh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Dead Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Death by Misadventure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Drawstring T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Elijah's Coming T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Filet of Sole T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flake, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Bush Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Holy Smokes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X |
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Jungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Let It All Hang Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mike's Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Outer Limit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Overhang Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Overpass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pinnacle Stand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Secovar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Shana Grant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sheepherder TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shovling-Cole T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southeast Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Southwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sympathy to the Devil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Traverse of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Underpass T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Waterchute, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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When Sheep Ran Scared T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01493, -116.16335 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Jeff Batten, January 1985. |
| Page Views: | 957 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Dec 11, 2018 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This funky route begins about 20 feet left of Bongledesch and about 30 feet right of Drawstring.
Start at a bulging overhang with a bolt. A strenuous (5.11-) mantle surmounts the bulge. Then climb straight up to a crack (2 to 3-inch pro here). Move left to another bolt, then traverse further left (5.11-) on steeper, thin slab moves until you can move back up and right into a scoop. Climb past a horizontal break (no pro) then runout (5.8 R) slab climbing takes you up to the big ledge (called Large Ledge) at the top of Mike's Books first pitch.
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