Outer Limit
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British A3
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0148, -116.163 |
| FA: | John Wolfe, Dick James, Howard Weamer, 1969 |
| Page Views: | 1,602 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Rose on Jan 3, 2016 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Climb the first section of West Chimney or a short, strenuous jam crack (right of WC) through shrubbery to the base of the overhanging wall. Aid the left of two overhanging cracks on the right wall of West Chimney past Night Ledge to the top.
5.9 Free variation: Climb OL to the beginning of the aid section, then traverse left into West Chimney. Climb up about 20 feet then go back right to finish OL. 2 pitches. FFA of upper section, Dave Mayville, 12/00.
From the original 1970 guide: "Pin placement above is deceptively difficult at times; a good selection of 3/4", 1", and larger angles and bongs should be carried. The first ascent was made piecemeal, mainly because of time and weather conditions: (first pitch) 4-12-69 by John Wolfe and Dick James; (to Night Ledge) 5-3-69 by same party; (to summit) 5-17-69 by John Wolfe and Howard Weamer.



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