Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Woody Stark & Dick Webster, May 1969
Page Views: 1,454 total · 7/month
Shared By: Crotch Robbins on Mar 31, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Squirming, grunting, and cursing with a relaxed feel. Bring the wide stuff, and wear more than a thong and sports-bra. The climb is always reasonable with an edge not too far away, and requires some pure ow/squeezy moves on good clean rock.


This route starts around the corner (clockwise) from Mike's Books and ascends the obvious left-leaning wide crack.


Gear to 3 inches, one bolt (1/2" SS)


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Not a bad route that will often be available when the area by Overhang Bypass/The Flake is busy. Easily done as a single pitch, the transition from crack to friction face is especially memorable (there is one 3/8" bolt on the upper face). Jan 10, 2004
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
the only reason going from the crack to the face is memorable is because it feels great getting the hell out of that Offwidth hell!!! Calling this wide, squirmy route a 5.7 is nuts IMO... Maybe 5.8 as it is listed here... But for me today it felt more like a 5.9... then again my offwidth technique has never been that good... just like with Waterchute 5.10b, I am glad this one is now out of the way... Nov 8, 2005
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Led the first pitch today. I thought it was pretty straight forward as far as climbs of this nature go. It will certainly scare off the gym climbers and bragadocios without wide cred. Second pitch is all there, but somewhat runout. All in all I'm glad it's off my tic-list! Don Apr 17, 2009
Portland, OR
Moof   Portland, OR
Used less wide stuff than I expected, a singles form 3" to 7" is plenty. Still found the need for #0.75-#2,which surprised me. Getting from the "trough" on to the face is indeed a bit exciting, the upper slab is run-out but no big deal. Would do it again. Bat Crack is probably a good warm up right next door (another gravely/grovely good time romp) Jan 7, 2016
I didn't place any gear until I made it up the ramp to the crack, biggest I had was a 4. The chimneyish/slab start is a bit scary, but not too hard. The runout above the crack is also a mental crux, but there is a bolt in the middle that's hard to see from the last pro, which makes things a bit more reasonable. Feb 25, 2016
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Dimes   Joshua Tree, Ca.
The bolt on this route was upgraded today by the ASCA with a 1/2" stainless steel bolt and a Camo SS hanger. May 31, 2017