Overhang Bypass

I didn't like this route, and also found it to be very hard for the grade on P2. I guess everyone's tastes vary, but discontinuous mostly easy climbing with a few hard moves does not a classic make. Nov 4, 2002

came off this climb smiling ear to ear...After P1 the belay is superb and actually had enough room for leader, belay and someone on the ground who wanted to join in to make it a 3 some. The start of P2 is sketchy, yet there is ample placement for gear, (espeacially aliens) Like it was said, the feet are scarce, but they are there. I used a 1 1/2 alien in the end of the traverse, before the bolt, and it placed like butter...enjoy!!! Apr 17, 2003

Alan Bartlett's book description of the route has the climber exiting the flake roof to the right. This variation is 5.7 slab climbing, but is runout and uncomfortable. The exit to the left has much better pro. Feb 9, 2004

A great route that's even better (maybe a little harder) if done straight up over the apex of the small downturned roof.



A sling can be untied and threaded through a hole at the lip while stemming and provides good protection on this part. On the second pitch it's best to just go, as worrying about pro will only pump you out. Have some rope signals worked out ahead of time as it can be hard to hear on this route, particularly on the second pitch. Three stars out of five. Feb 12, 2004

Another great route, 2 crux's, Yeah Yeah Yeah I know. I loved the left crack out of the trough on the 1st pitch, protect it with a tri-cam and a nut and GO. The traverse was fun and has a sweet spot for a cam 1/2 way across, Don't let the traverse mess with your mind, plug the gear and go, the hand holds are there, feet too. The top is cool too... E.T.A. 3 min, 23.41 sec from tent. Apr 29, 2004

Fun climbing on P1, but the short P2 is where the fun is to be had. The bypass protected well with a #.75 and #1 cam. I was lucky enough to chit chat with Jim Bridwell after climbing this route - what a treat! May 10, 2004

Did this with Tan Slacks today and do not think that it is a classic either. The first pitch was an easy solo to what is more of a relatively easy boulder problem. The amount of car traffic made it impossible to hear Tan (Yes I know that walkie talkies exist) the "looky Loos" with cameras in hands made for a distracting mess. All in all though it was not a great one. I did actually enjoy it however. But I am a "glutten for punishment". Would I do it again? Not worth it to me. So no! Too many other climbs that are better and away from the masses. But??? Opinions are just that and mine holds no more weight than others.......... Jun 2, 2004

I will have to disagree with Locker. I thought the route was fun and that pitch 1 had a thoughtful move over the first roof. P1 was easy to protect. P2, don't hang out. It's easier to keep moving on the good holds under the roof. Way too many people watching for my taste though. Jun 2, 2004

I've done this route more times than I can remember. In the "old days" we always did the underpass. It adds a challenge to the first pitch that enhances the overall quality of the route. I give the route maximum stars because of its varied and interesting moves. If put up today, it would probably be rated 5.8. The traverse should be taken seriously; there've been quite a few broken bones here. The "gap" in the middle of the traverse poses a problem for shorter than average climbers. I choose not to stop and place a point midway; it's risky, but I believe keeping the momentum going is safer. Jun 4, 2004

This is my most favorite low grade route in the park. I can't count the number of times I've climbed it! As with some of the other comments on the climb; it is good to just keep moving under the roof until the climbing eases, or else, it's a pump-fest not worth putting upon oneself. Feb 7, 2005

Climbed this guy last week. I thought this was a really fun climb. The crux's are very distinct, you'll know it when you get there. I sent up belay right under the roof. For the roof, its pretty protectable just depends on how much gusto you've got but the feet are pretty good and its much easier than it looks from the ground. I used a purple alien and a yellow friend to sew it up. All around a very good climb! Apr 7, 2005

Gee Woody, must have been unusual atmospheric conditions to get such a short one. Apr 15, 2005

Touche'! Clever, Randy. Apr 16, 2005

I have always avoided this route because it looked very intimidating. Finally climbed it last week and enjoyed it very much. It protects well, especially the crux moves.

I noticed that there are many opinions on the first pitch in this thread. The trouble with this is that there are numerous variations on the first pitch, especially the lower section. Go way left and make it a walk up, or choose the more challenging route and make it a 5.6 to 5.8.

The route is next to the road, so expect a non-aesthetic environment during tourist season. The anchor at the top is the same as the main rappel anchors, so think about building your own anchor on a busy day (decent crack system near the rappel anchors... you may want to extend, but not worries because you should have plenty of rope due to the short second pitch). Oct 14, 2007

I have climbed this twice and find it fun, challenging, and 100% worthwhile. This is one of those routes you look up at and think "it would be awesome if I could climb that, " and then find its well within your reach.

Anyway, here are some things that I don't think have been mentioned that should be.

1. Take prussiks and make sure both people know how to use them. If the second falls on the traverse, they will likely be dangling and need to self rescue. If you lower the person down to retry after they have cleaned the gear, I believe there is a deck/nasty pendulum potential.
My 2nd popped off 1/2 way through the traverse and learned that self-rescue practice in the gym is totally different than the real situation. The paparazzi didn't do anything for the stress of the situation(but one of them kindly emailed us an amusing picture).

2. I think its best to place at least 2 pieces of gear on the traverse to protect the second(1/3 and 2/3 of the way through). If you only place in the middle, they will pendulum right for a ways. I found a .75 and 1 camalot place perfectly, as well.

3. Like mentioned, consider extending your belay way down with your rope. Otherwise, you won't be able to hear or see your second.

Just some thoughts. Nest time, I want to do the true overhang.

cheers Mar 3, 2008

If you want to make things safer for your second on the traverse and you are comfortable at the grade, do the following....

1) Place pro at the beginning of the traverse
2) Don't place any pro across the traverse
3) Once past the final bolt you can reach down and unclip the bolt after you've past it. The stance to do this is very secure.
4) Now head up and create an anchor.
5) Flip the rope lookers-right and the rope will be directly over the middle of the traverse. You can even flip the rope along as your second moves through the traverse. Apr 18, 2008

The top portion of this route makes it worth doing, very fun and thinky.

The first pitch however, I did not feel good about either option coming out of the trough/roof thing. Vogel's guide has left hand exit rated at 5.6 and I can't understand how. Very committing and scary - the right hand slab exit hid itself well enough from me to become a non-option. Maybe it was a bad day, unfamiliar technique or just plain beyond me, but I have lead many a 5.6/7 in the park and neither of the P1 options felt that easy to me.

A good route all the same!

The hand traverse was tons of fun and IMHO the route gets it's rating of 5.7 from this alone. Apr 1, 2009

What a treat to find water-filled huecos at the summit. What a beautiful spot! Taller climbers will have an advantage exiting the trough on P1 as well as the traverse on P2. Holds are bomber. Pro is solid. The leader for P1 used a Black Diamond #2 to protect the left exit out of the trough. I used #.75 and #2 Black Diamond cams to protect the traverse on P2. Fun! Feb 17, 2010

5.7 eh? Hehh heh. A 5.7 overhanging hand traverse with slick feet?
Sandbaggers! Nov 29, 2010

Loved P1 very fun. P2 was pretty difficult for the grade, but once we figured it out turned out to be very cool. Remember to reach up over your head there are holds on the lip of the rock that we didn't know were there, and they ended up being the key to success. Overall great climb though! Apr 10, 2011

The P1 cave/trough exit is definitely not obvious and was difficult for me as a shorter climber. I opted for the right side face climbing with my last piece of gear down inside the cave. Terrible idea. I ended up on runout 5.7/8 face sure I was going to take a huge swinging fall in to the cave and scared to death.

Compared to that, the traverse on P2 was good easy fun for a modern gym climber with decent strength.

Definitely recommend the exit left if you're unsure at the grade. Also, get your pro as high as possible in the cave/trough and preferably in the roof of it. Apr 16, 2011

Look up at Evan1984 post. Dead on. I led the first pitch and my friend BJ led the 2nd. I took a fall on the traverse and was hanging in mid air too low for any handholds. Luckily I'm 6'4" so i was able to kick off the right wall and do a dyno move with my left hand to get back in the crack. If not I would have been screwed. Definatley going to learn the prussick skills that Evan1984 talks about.....My opinion is if you can't lead 5.8 or easy .9 then don't lead the 2nd pitch..... Apr 7, 2012

P2 is pretty easy. Placed a .75 BD before the traverse, made the first move, back-cleaned it, and replaced it about halfway across. a #1 would work too, but the traverse is so short you're better off placing a piece and going, not sticking around to fiddle with gear. Nov 17, 2012

Total head game... Absolutely a must do for j tree climbers Aug 25, 2013

Combined North Overhand start to Bypass finish. Done in one pitch. Nov 11, 2013

Lower half only worthy of one star. The upper half worthy of three. Dec 9, 2013

After spending way too long trying to figure out how to get onto the right hand slab from the trough I ended up exiting left. Pretty easy and protects well. Not sure why the book says the other way is the "best" unless you just really dig run out slab.

The traverse on P2 is pretty cool but...that's the whole pitch.

Two stars for the boulder problem in the sky. Feb 25, 2014

there's a stuck old style BD green 0.75 in the diagonal crack just before the airy sidepull sequence about halfway up P1, with barely reachable bar trigger Jan 22, 2016

There is also a stick blue x4 after the sidepull sequence on p1 that I used as part of an anchor rather than going up to the traverse. Feb 25, 2016

I enjoyed leading the 2nd short pitch, but make sure your follower can make it since being a traverse you can't help them out. This is probably common knowledge, but I'm new to climbing and don't want others making our mistake. We got into a little bit of trouble when she couldn't make it also be aware in the evening when traffic is bad you won't be able to hear your partner below the overhang when you belay. Being a party of 3 we had two ropes and got down to her and let her rappel off.

I'll definitely do this one again! Mar 3, 2016

Caution: there is a hollow handhold that flexes, it's toward the end of the traverse on p2. My follower actually heard it crack as he weighted it. Jan 5, 2017

lol 5.7

for sure joshua tree Dec 24, 2017

gear from .4 cam to #1. maybe double up on .75 and 1 for the 2nd pitch if you want to sew it up. Jan 15, 2018