Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown, FFA: John Wolfe and Howard Weamer, June 1969
Page Views: 19,788 total · 96/month
Shared By: M. Morley on May 9, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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P1: Start left of The Flake in an easy crack. Several variations exist. Belay on gear below the summit overhang as for North Overhang.

P2: Traverse out right with good hands and not so good feet. Be sure to protect the follower, as a fall will land them out in space. Pull up onto airy ledge, delicately reach up to clip the bolt, and continue up face to the summit. Belay from 2-bolt anchor.

Descent: With one rope, rap from same bolt anchor to the north back to starting ledge.


Standard rack.
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
I didn't like this route, and also found it to be very hard for the grade on P2. I guess everyone's tastes vary, but discontinuous mostly easy climbing with a few hard moves does not a classic make. Nov 4, 2002
came off this climb smiling ear to ear...After P1 the belay is superb and actually had enough room for leader, belay and someone on the ground who wanted to join in to make it a 3 some. The start of P2 is sketchy, yet there is ample placement for gear, (espeacially aliens) Like it was said, the feet are scarce, but they are there. I used a 1 1/2 alien in the end of the traverse, before the bolt, and it placed like butter...enjoy!!! Apr 17, 2003
Alan Bartlett's book description of the route has the climber exiting the flake roof to the right. This variation is 5.7 slab climbing, but is runout and uncomfortable. The exit to the left has much better pro. Feb 9, 2004
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
A great route that's even better (maybe a little harder) if done straight up over the apex of the small downturned roof.

A sling can be untied and threaded through a hole at the lip while stemming and provides good protection on this part. On the second pitch it's best to just go, as worrying about pro will only pump you out. Have some rope signals worked out ahead of time as it can be hard to hear on this route, particularly on the second pitch. Three stars out of five. Feb 12, 2004
Spfld, Ma
GoBotRocker   Spfld, Ma
Another great route, 2 crux's, Yeah Yeah Yeah I know. I loved the left crack out of the trough on the 1st pitch, protect it with a tri-cam and a nut and GO. The traverse was fun and has a sweet spot for a cam 1/2 way across, Don't let the traverse mess with your mind, plug the gear and go, the hand holds are there, feet too. The top is cool too... E.T.A. 3 min, 23.41 sec from tent. Apr 29, 2004
Matt Chan
Matt Chan   Denver
Fun climbing on P1, but the short P2 is where the fun is to be had. The bypass protected well with a #.75 and #1 cam. I was lucky enough to chit chat with Jim Bridwell after climbing this route - what a treat! May 10, 2004
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
Did this with Tan Slacks today and do not think that it is a classic either. The first pitch was an easy solo to what is more of a relatively easy boulder problem. The amount of car traffic made it impossible to hear Tan (Yes I know that walkie talkies exist) the "looky Loos" with cameras in hands made for a distracting mess. All in all though it was not a great one. I did actually enjoy it however. But I am a "glutten for punishment". Would I do it again? Not worth it to me. So no! Too many other climbs that are better and away from the masses. But??? Opinions are just that and mine holds no more weight than others.......... Jun 2, 2004
Tan Slacks
Joshua tree
Tan Slacks   Joshua tree
I will have to disagree with Locker. I thought the route was fun and that pitch 1 had a thoughtful move over the first roof. P1 was easy to protect. P2, don't hang out. It's easier to keep moving on the good holds under the roof. Way too many people watching for my taste though. Jun 2, 2004
Woody Stark  
I've done this route more times than I can remember. In the "old days" we always did the underpass. It adds a challenge to the first pitch that enhances the overall quality of the route. I give the route maximum stars because of its varied and interesting moves. If put up today, it would probably be rated 5.8. The traverse should be taken seriously; there've been quite a few broken bones here. The "gap" in the middle of the traverse poses a problem for shorter than average climbers. I choose not to stop and place a point midway; it's risky, but I believe keeping the momentum going is safer. Jun 4, 2004
Bo Johnston  
This is my most favorite low grade route in the park. I can't count the number of times I've climbed it! As with some of the other comments on the climb; it is good to just keep moving under the roof until the climbing eases, or else, it's a pump-fest not worth putting upon oneself. Feb 7, 2005
Jason Shatek  
Climbed this guy last week. I thought this was a really fun climb. The crux's are very distinct, you'll know it when you get there. I sent up belay right under the roof. For the roof, its pretty protectable just depends on how much gusto you've got but the feet are pretty good and its much easier than it looks from the ground. I used a purple alien and a yellow friend to sew it up. All around a very good climb! Apr 7, 2005
Lassitude 33
Randy   Lassitude 33
Gee Woody, must have been unusual atmospheric conditions to get such a short one. Apr 15, 2005
Woody Stark  
Touche'! Clever, Randy. Apr 16, 2005
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
I have always avoided this route because it looked very intimidating. Finally climbed it last week and enjoyed it very much. It protects well, especially the crux moves.

I noticed that there are many opinions on the first pitch in this thread. The trouble with this is that there are numerous variations on the first pitch, especially the lower section. Go way left and make it a walk up, or choose the more challenging route and make it a 5.6 to 5.8.

The route is next to the road, so expect a non-aesthetic environment during tourist season. The anchor at the top is the same as the main rappel anchors, so think about building your own anchor on a busy day (decent crack system near the rappel anchors... you may want to extend, but not worries because you should have plenty of rope due to the short second pitch). Oct 14, 2007
I have climbed this twice and find it fun, challenging, and 100% worthwhile. This is one of those routes you look up at and think "it would be awesome if I could climb that, " and then find its well within your reach.

Anyway, here are some things that I don't think have been mentioned that should be.

1. Take prussiks and make sure both people know how to use them. If the second falls on the traverse, they will likely be dangling and need to self rescue. If you lower the person down to retry after they have cleaned the gear, I believe there is a deck/nasty pendulum potential.
My 2nd popped off 1/2 way through the traverse and learned that self-rescue practice in the gym is totally different than the real situation. The paparazzi didn't do anything for the stress of the situation(but one of them kindly emailed us an amusing picture).

2. I think its best to place at least 2 pieces of gear on the traverse to protect the second(1/3 and 2/3 of the way through). If you only place in the middle, they will pendulum right for a ways. I found a .75 and 1 camalot place perfectly, as well.

3. Like mentioned, consider extending your belay way down with your rope. Otherwise, you won't be able to hear or see your second.

Just some thoughts. Nest time, I want to do the true overhang.

cheers Mar 3, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8- PG13
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8- PG13
If you want to make things safer for your second on the traverse and you are comfortable at the grade, do the following....

1) Place pro at the beginning of the traverse
2) Don't place any pro across the traverse
3) Once past the final bolt you can reach down and unclip the bolt after you've past it. The stance to do this is very secure.
4) Now head up and create an anchor.
5) Flip the rope lookers-right and the rope will be directly over the middle of the traverse. You can even flip the rope along as your second moves through the traverse. Apr 18, 2008
72HW Holly
Minneapolis, MN
72HW Holly   Minneapolis, MN
The top portion of this route makes it worth doing, very fun and thinky.

The first pitch however, I did not feel good about either option coming out of the trough/roof thing. Vogel's guide has left hand exit rated at 5.6 and I can't understand how. Very committing and scary - the right hand slab exit hid itself well enough from me to become a non-option. Maybe it was a bad day, unfamiliar technique or just plain beyond me, but I have lead many a 5.6/7 in the park and neither of the P1 options felt that easy to me.

A good route all the same!

The hand traverse was tons of fun and IMHO the route gets it's rating of 5.7 from this alone. Apr 1, 2009
What a treat to find water-filled huecos at the summit. What a beautiful spot! Taller climbers will have an advantage exiting the trough on P1 as well as the traverse on P2. Holds are bomber. Pro is solid. The leader for P1 used a Black Diamond #2 to protect the left exit out of the trough. I used #.75 and #2 Black Diamond cams to protect the traverse on P2. Fun! Feb 17, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
5.7 eh? Hehh heh. A 5.7 overhanging hand traverse with slick feet?
Sandbaggers! Nov 29, 2010
Patrick Kaufer
Laguna Hills, CA
Patrick Kaufer   Laguna Hills, CA
Loved P1 very fun. P2 was pretty difficult for the grade, but once we figured it out turned out to be very cool. Remember to reach up over your head there are holds on the lip of the rock that we didn't know were there, and they ended up being the key to success. Overall great climb though! Apr 10, 2011
The P1 cave/trough exit is definitely not obvious and was difficult for me as a shorter climber. I opted for the right side face climbing with my last piece of gear down inside the cave. Terrible idea. I ended up on runout 5.7/8 face sure I was going to take a huge swinging fall in to the cave and scared to death.

Compared to that, the traverse on P2 was good easy fun for a modern gym climber with decent strength.

Definitely recommend the exit left if you're unsure at the grade. Also, get your pro as high as possible in the cave/trough and preferably in the roof of it. Apr 16, 2011
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
Look up at Evan1984 post. Dead on. I led the first pitch and my friend BJ led the 2nd. I took a fall on the traverse and was hanging in mid air too low for any handholds. Luckily I'm 6'4" so i was able to kick off the right wall and do a dyno move with my left hand to get back in the crack. If not I would have been screwed. Definatley going to learn the prussick skills that Evan1984 talks about.....My opinion is if you can't lead 5.8 or easy .9 then don't lead the 2nd pitch..... Apr 7, 2012
P2 is pretty easy. Placed a .75 BD before the traverse, made the first move, back-cleaned it, and replaced it about halfway across. a #1 would work too, but the traverse is so short you're better off placing a piece and going, not sticking around to fiddle with gear. Nov 17, 2012
Alex Doria
San Diego
Alex Doria   San Diego
Total head game... Absolutely a must do for j tree climbers Aug 25, 2013
Carlsbad CA
RAZORsharp   Carlsbad CA
Combined North Overhand start to Bypass finish. Done in one pitch. Nov 11, 2013
Lower half only worthy of one star. The upper half worthy of three. Dec 9, 2013
Ryan Watts
Bishop, CA
Ryan Watts   Bishop, CA
After spending way too long trying to figure out how to get onto the right hand slab from the trough I ended up exiting left. Pretty easy and protects well. Not sure why the book says the other way is the "best" unless you just really dig run out slab.

The traverse on P2 is pretty cool but...that's the whole pitch.

Two stars for the boulder problem in the sky. Feb 25, 2014
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
there's a stuck old style BD green 0.75 in the diagonal crack just before the airy sidepull sequence about halfway up P1, with barely reachable bar trigger Jan 22, 2016
There is also a stick blue x4 after the sidepull sequence on p1 that I used as part of an anchor rather than going up to the traverse. Feb 25, 2016
Roadsoda _
San Francisco
Roadsoda _   San Francisco
I enjoyed leading the 2nd short pitch, but make sure your follower can make it since being a traverse you can't help them out. This is probably common knowledge, but I'm new to climbing and don't want others making our mistake. We got into a little bit of trouble when she couldn't make it also be aware in the evening when traffic is bad you won't be able to hear your partner below the overhang when you belay. Being a party of 3 we had two ropes and got down to her and let her rappel off.

I'll definitely do this one again! Mar 3, 2016
PSU Kat  
Caution: there is a hollow handhold that flexes, it's toward the end of the traverse on p2. My follower actually heard it crack as he weighted it. Jan 5, 2017
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
lol 5.7

for sure joshua tree Dec 24, 2017
Mike Womack
Los Angeles, CA
Mike Womack   Los Angeles, CA
gear from .4 cam to #1. maybe double up on .75 and 1 for the 2nd pitch if you want to sew it up. Jan 15, 2018
Luis Armando Gil
Portland Oregon
Luis Armando Gil   Portland Oregon
A 5.7+? :)... The climb protects ok. 2nd pitch crux is short and is that kind of routes where you only have limited holds, but they are there. Two moves and you are out of the crux. I would say, make sure your follower has a minimum of strength/experience for the route. I left long slings attached to the cams and tried to over protect for her. She felt the first time and I had to lower her because she ended up far from any hold. The second time she used the long slings to pull herself up and she thanked me for leaving that extra aid there. So, the bottom line is, consider who you climb the route with and be kind to your follower :) The slab on the top was fun but short. Bring a 70 for the rappel on the other side of the wall. Feb 17, 2019
Chad Silva
Chad Silva  
Really sweet route. I went left out of the trough on P1, which was a tough crux for me, but a lot easier for my follower (who could reach across to the flake on the face without any intermediate moves).

For the rappel, the "starting ledge" you rap to is NOT where you start. You rap to the north over a ledge that faces the outhouse, and looks too tall for a single rope rap. Once you're over the side, though - you see a ledge about 40ft up from the ground that walks off back towards where you started. Feb 26, 2019
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
I thought the ratings overall in Josh were super similar to the Sierra, but this was the one route on our trip that I felt was an obnoxious sandbag. Even the first pitch crux I thought was really stout for the grade (but this was the highlight of the climb for me, it’s awesome). The P2 overhang traverse, however, on shit feet and greased and overly chalked holds, was laughable at 5.7. And I’m not whining cause I greased off it or epiced, we onsighted. It’s just a total bag. Skip this one for sure if 5.7 is near your limit. Really wish I coulda convinced my parter to head left instead, looks much more awesome. Mar 7, 2019