Avg: 2.3 from 27 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||FFA: John Long and Royd Riggins, October 1972|
|Page Views:||3,098 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Mar 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Half Track is the shortest and easiest of the three climbs, but is by no means a route to test your limits on. As one of my first routes at J-Tree, I found it to be a little frightening just off of the ground, as I was not used to the friction there and did not have great faith in the required smears with such small gear (#3 BD Stopper) protecting me from a 10' ground fall.
I committed to the crux smears shortly after looking at my belayer and saying "I don't think that these will stick, but if they won't, then this is a lot harder than 10a. So I guess they must." They did and I didn't test the pro.
Approach from the campground or wherever you parked and walk up to the base of the climb. Move up a bit, place a few small nuts and continue up and left. The crux for me was the smears on feet just 10-15 feet up the route, which gets easier and better protected as you progress. The route will deposit you on the shoulder of the rock, 1/2 way up after about 70' of climbing. From there you may continue upward on one of a few cracks, or rap down to the base from a fixed anchor.