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Routes in Intersection Rock

Bat Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginner's Three T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Billabong T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bongledesh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Dead Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Death by Misadventure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Drawstring T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elijah's Coming T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Flake, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Bush Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Half Track T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Huevos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Ski Track T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let It All Hang Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lower Right Ski Track T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mike's Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Outer Limit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Overhang Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pinnacle Stand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Secovar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shana Grant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shovling-Cole T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southeast Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Southwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sympathy to the Devil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trapeze T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Underpass T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Upper Right Ski Track T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Water Chute T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zigzag T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FFA: John Long and Royd Riggins, October 1972
Page Views: 2,072 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

On intersection Rock, there are three main cracks running diagonally up and left from the base. These are visible from the North side (from the Hidden Valley Campground) and are called, from right to left, Right Ski Track, Left Ski Track, and Half Track. These are plainly visible in the attached photograph.

Half Track is the shortest and easiest of the three climbs, but is by no means a route to test your limits on. As one of my first routes at J-Tree, I found it to be a little frightening just off of the ground, as I was not used to the friction there and did not have great faith in the required smears with such small gear (#3 BD Stopper) protecting me from a 10' ground fall.

I committed to the crux smears shortly after looking at my belayer and saying "I don't think that these will stick, but if they won't, then this is a lot harder than 10a, so I guess they must." They did and I didn't test the pro.

Approach from the campground or wherever you parkedand walk up to the base of the climb. Move up a bit, place a few small nuts and continue up and left. The crux for me was the smears on feet just 10-15 feet up the route, which gets easier andf better protected as you progress. The route will deposit you on the shoulder of the rock, 1/2 way up after about 70' of climbing. From there you may continue upward on one of a few cracks, or rap down to the base from a fixed anchor.

Protection

A standard J-tree rack of nuts, from very small to large, plus a set of TCU's to hand-sized cams.

Photos

Really enjoyed this route. Protected well with small cams after the no-pro friction start. It seemed much easier to climb edges and friction just left of the pin-scarred seam until the first gear placement 15' up. A crash pad might be handy for the start if you're at your limit. Rapped off the slung block on the ledge 1/2 way up. Jan 30, 2012
When we first did this route free I kept trying to get something (including hand made nuts I hack sawed at my job at a gas station) in the crack and going higher and higher but nothing would fit so it was a 25 foot free solo to the easy stuff- scary stuff for high school in red PAs. Years later this would become part of the mid-70s free solo circuit that included all of the Ski Tracks, Waterchute, Bongledesh, and North Overhang (on this formation). Jul 19, 2011
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
 
The rap anchor does suck--but I trusted it on Sunday when we climbed it...and I'm still here. Apr 25, 2006
Bo Johnston  
 
If you can get past the first 20 feet the rest of this route is a breeze. Feb 6, 2005
the rap anchor at the top of the pitch sucks ass, im thinkin of putting in back up bolts because the flake that you currently rap off is cracking not to mention all that damned webbing up there looks more disgusting than two camoflaged bolts would, this is an honest subject and would like some real feed back on what you all think. Sep 4, 2003
pretty damn commiting! Aug 25, 2003