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> Intersection Rock
The Waterchute
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | John Wolfe, 1968 |
Page Views: | 3,974 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 23, 2002 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is the aptly named broad groove just 8' right of the direct Start to Mike's Books on the SE end of the Intersection Rock.
The meat of the route is divided into two cruxes, the first of which is getting more than one move off of the ground by pulling/pushing onto a left-leaning flake off of a sloper foot. Wide stemming makes this easier and more secure for the flexible people. Another (easier) crux lies perhaps 15 or 20 feet up, above a so-so TCU placement. One bolt remains on the route, and others were either broken or chopped, which is hard to say. The route is somewhat runout, but for the real crux you need a spotter, not protection.
Rap from the fixed chains on the ledge.
The meat of the route is divided into two cruxes, the first of which is getting more than one move off of the ground by pulling/pushing onto a left-leaning flake off of a sloper foot. Wide stemming makes this easier and more secure for the flexible people. Another (easier) crux lies perhaps 15 or 20 feet up, above a so-so TCU placement. One bolt remains on the route, and others were either broken or chopped, which is hard to say. The route is somewhat runout, but for the real crux you need a spotter, not protection.
Rap from the fixed chains on the ledge.
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