Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Howard Weamer & John Wolfe, May 1969
Page Views: 1,172 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 29, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

On the southern end of the west face, just left of the Southwest Passage Route there is a groove/corner that climbs up and left to a sloping ledge, then up and out through the right hand edge of a large bulge. Getting out of the initial groove and onto the sloping ledge is the first crux (5.7 with grainy rock and tricky protection if not careful). You can belay there if desired... then the real crux is getting out past the right hand edge of the bulge above and onto the easy, but runout slab above that.This was considerably harder than the book-assigned grade unless you cheat well to the left, going close to the Bat Crack (5.5) and traversing back right and in. It felt at least 5.8... or maybe harder.

Belay from above, then rap twice first down to the sloping ledge, and then to the ground.

Protection

A standard light rack with some cams in the .5-1.5 range to be sure. There are some runouts to consider, and some tricky protection.

Photos

Kramer Canup
Seattle, WA
 
Kramer Canup   Seattle, WA
 
Linked p1 to bat crack for a cruiser finish to the day and a nice sunset from the top of intersection rock. Did two raps back down pinacle stand with a 70. Jan 27, 2017
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8 R
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8 R
Super heads up and sandbagged, even by Joshua Tree standards. Some cool moves in places though. If you fall on the slab above the bulge before the bolt you will deck onto the ledge for sure. Apr 1, 2018