Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Randy Faulk, 4/88
Page Views: 2,108 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 30, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route lies on the upper 1/4 of Intersection Rock, on the west end of the south face, directly above the finish to Billabong. From the ratty webbing "anchor" on Billabong, proceed upward in a strange groove and crack feature with so-so to poor pro and continue up on an odd seam. Just as the angle starts to ease, the features also go away and you are left with crappy sloping sidepulls and scoops on junky crumbling rock. As the angle continues to decrease, the size of the junk holds decrease with it. My partner, who followed, slipped off just at the top of this line where the climbing was "only 5.7" when some rock sheared out underfoot. I believe that it would have been a career-ending fall if she was on lead. Beware.

Protection

Scant pro in bad rock. You can get a few pieces in low, but if they hold is questionable, and what you'd hit would hurt you. If you need pro at this grade, do not climb this route.

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C Miller   CA  
Brian Jones, former lead guitarist for the Rolling Stones, was said to have been a victim of "death by misadventure"; he was found drowned in a swimmming pool after a night of drinking wine and taking downers.

Also the name of a 1993 documentary about the life and death of Bruce Lee. Nov 2, 2006
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
From the groove/crack mentioned in the description above, there is a new bolt just left, you can clip this and then move slightly right and up which seemed more like 5.9. This would have you going up maybe 5 feet left of the description above and probably is only "R" rated.

Alternatively you can continue traversing left past this new bolt on the horizontal to a short, easy vertical crack and roof, mid 5.10 on the traverse left. This might be "Dead Again" or not.

Either alternative maybe worth 1 star out of 5 for nice position. Jan 2, 2009