Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Wolfe, Rich Wolfe, December 1966
Page Views: 4,266 total · 30/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Jun 11, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start about twenty feet right of "Billabong". Climb a chimney to "Bat Ledge". Climb a crack to the top.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Kinda fun! Dec 7, 2008
stoubie
joshua tree, ca
stoubie   joshua tree, ca
We did this by starting it on Southwest Passage (5.8) then up through the chimney on the right. The crack itself is off-width. Good place for pro above your head as you start the main system, but you will need the "big stuff" later towards the end or you'll be scooting and praying to the top. Mar 20, 2010
Dean Olson
  5.5
Dean Olson  
  5.5
stoubie is so right on. the final haul is difficult to protect and you might find yourself run out to the finish. Feb 19, 2013
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
The plated face to the left of the chimney start is a fun way to do this one. It protects well for the leader but does involve a poorly protected traverse for the follower at the end of the first pitch. Facing out and chimney climbing the first half of the second pitch makes it pretty secure if you're worried. The slab to the right of the crack on P2 is fun to climb as well once you get a ways up the crack (provided you aren't worried about falling). May 4, 2015
Moof
Portland, OR
 
Moof   Portland, OR
 
Good route. Getting up into the chimney start is the crux. Bring knee pads. The upper low angle grovel crack is a hoot. Large hexes can be better than cams for pro due to the irregular crack. Save a few 0.5-1# pieces for building an anchor. Probably the most physical 5.5 I have ever climbed. Jan 7, 2016
Any more info on this route, like how long it is? What is the descent? Rap off or walk off? Aug 1, 2016
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
just walk across top to backside and rap using the communal rap anchor at the finish of North Overhang (facing parking lot). remember to rap to the big ledge where Upper Right Ski Track starts. don't try to rap to the ground with a 60 Apr 18, 2017