Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jerry Gallwas, Barbara Lilley, and others, Mar. 1953
Page Views: 2,913 total · 19/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 5, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Climb a shallow squeeze chimney (crux) up to a large ledge at the base of the main chimney. Climb this large chimney (4th class) to the top.

Location

The upper two thirds of this route is a very obvious chimney that splits the west face of the rock.

Protection

light rack

Photos

Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
first thirty feet are kind of hard if you don't know how to chimney. easy, but not recommended for beginners due to the required technical chimneying and offwidth... even at 5.6 chimney/offwidth can be made hard. Nov 20, 2006
Charles I.
Boulder, CO
Charles I.   Boulder, CO
Just did this awesome route for the first time. This is defintely one of my favorite lines up IR. Nov 5, 2007
juggy
Lakewood Colorado
juggy   Lakewood Colorado
best way to come down when soloing Apr 30, 2010
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
I've found the Upper Right Ski Track to be an easier downclimb for a post solo descent. It does look hard and reeks of certain death, but it ain't. Granted, the hard part of the West Chimney is at the bottom, so the potential fall that a downclimber might take will be much more survivable than the absolute death one would get from pitching out of the Upper Right Ski Track at any point. YMMV. May 1, 2010
Randy
Lassitude 33
Randy   Lassitude 33
As Russ said May 1, 2010
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
I always found the SE Corner to be the mellowest downclimb (although I haven't checked this out). Mar 7, 2012
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
I've only climbed down this thing, but it's a fun route! The chimney crux moves are secure as a downclimb; it's probably harder going up. In my opinion the least secure moves on the down climb are the last 5 feet! May 4, 2015