Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tony Bubb & Sarah Hayes, 12/2005
Page Views: 653 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 30, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is only slightly better than Death By Misadventure and was climbed in an effort to avoid Death By Misadventure. But only in that respect is it a reasonable route. From the webbing 'anchors' atop of Billabong, climb the strange groove and cracks up and right about 20 feet. at the top of this feature, it is possible to foot-traverse right on a horizontal feature, heading over almost around a corner (5.10-, R) to reach another crack. A few small cams can be placed before launching off upward in a shallow rounded corner. The last pro placed as the smallest micro-camalot I had (the .22" red one) and perhaps a nest of ballnuts could have gone in higher. The grainy rock made this dubious anyway. A few meters higher, the crux climbing came, with odd "liebacks" with nothing more than odd scoops and bulges for both feet and hands.

The holds were shedding significantly as I went up. I did grind things down with my feet and fingers, trying cleaning the holds so I would be safe, and my partner found much less loose on it following, but I would still consider leading this bold and dangerous until the route is cleaned up further.

Protection

Thin cams and a few longer slings.

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