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Dead Again
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Intersection Rock
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Bat Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Beginner's Three T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Billabong T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bongledesh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Dead Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Death by Misadventure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Drawstring T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Elijah's Coming T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Fast Track T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Filet of Sole T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flake (Temporarily closed due to rockfall), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Bush Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Half Track T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Holy Smokes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X |
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Huevos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jungle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kool Aid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A4 |
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Left Ski Track T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Let It All Hang Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lower Right Ski Track T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mike's Books T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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North Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Outer Limit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Overhang Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Overpass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pinnacle Stand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Secovar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Shana Grant S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sheepherder TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shovling-Cole T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southeast Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Southwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sympathy to the Devil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trapeze Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Traverse of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Underpass T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Upper Right Ski Track T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Waterchute, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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When Sheep Ran Scared T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Zigzag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0148, -116.163 |
| FA: | Tony Bubb & Sarah Hayes, 12/2005 |
| Page Views: | 1,438 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 30, 2005 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Access Issue: Temporary closure of The Flake
Details
Description
This route is only slightly better than Death By Misadventure and was climbed in an effort to avoid Death By Misadventure. But only in that respect is it a reasonable route. From the webbing 'anchors' atop of Billabong, climb the strange groove and cracks up and right about 20 feet. at the top of this feature, it is possible to foot-traverse right on a horizontal feature, heading over almost around a corner (5.10-, R) to reach another crack. A few small cams can be placed before launching off upward in a shallow rounded corner. The last pro placed as the smallest micro-camalot I had (the .22" red one) and perhaps a nest of ballnuts could have gone in higher. The grainy rock made this dubious anyway. A few meters higher, the crux climbing came, with odd "liebacks" with nothing more than odd scoops and bulges for both feet and hands.
The holds were shedding significantly as I went up. I did grind things down with my feet and fingers, trying cleaning the holds so I would be safe, and my partner found much less loose on it following, but I would still consider leading this bold and dangerous until the route is cleaned up further.
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