American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)
There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.
The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.
Mountainworks is the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.
From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.
From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.
You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.
Rated 5.11d in the book, this route has suffered from the continuous demise of a "key" hold in the crux roof section, and is now, in my opinion, pretty solid 12a....especially for the area. Maybe I just don't climb it very often so it always feels hard.Big jugs lead to a roof, which you climb around on the left side of the bolt, and the pump really just builds after that as you climb on slopey pockets and edges to the chains. Somewhat of a testpiece for the lower grades....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
While driving up the canyon I've noticed on the left hand side (north end) there are quite few limestone towers a good distance away from the road. Does anyone know of any established routes on said towers or of the quality of rock?