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The Diamond

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ariana T 
Black Dagger T 
Casual Route T 
Curving Vine T 
D1 T 
D7 T 
D7 Variation T 
Dunn Westbay T 
Forrest Finish T 
Full Dunn-Westbay T 
Full House T 
Hearts and Arrows T 
King of Swords T 
Obelisk, The T 
Pervertical Sanctuary T 
Yellow Wall T 

The Diamond  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 14,255'
Location: 40.25617, -105.61384 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 811,951
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [3 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: A marmot scopes out the Diamond.

Description 

The East Face of Long's, crowned by the Diamond, is a world famous alpine wall, and every other aspect of Long's holds wonderful secret and not-so-secret scrambles and climbs. This is my, and many other people's favorite mountain--Please, Please, Please tread as lightly as you can on this mountain! I am somewhat wary of writing anything that could increase traffic, though hopefully all this beta will decrease rescues. The peak sees thousands of ascents every year and the East Face is starting to feel like the Boulder Rock Club. You can do yourself and everyone else a favor by climbing on weekdays. The Diamond free-climbing season generally runs from mid-July to mid-September.

Getting There 

From the Long's Peak Trailhead, follow wide trails and obvious signs to wherever your route might be. and scramble around it on the north (for the East Face). If taking the rappels from Chasm View, they begin from bolts on a large, semi-detached rectangular block. Most people who want the East Face hike to Chasm [Lake] and scramble around it on the north. If you are looking for the North Chimney (read: gully), which offers the standard passage to the Diamond, then make sure you do NOT take Field's Chimney, which is more obvious as you approach the Diamond above Chasm Lake. The North Chimney is somehwhat hidden, and lies further north, below the center of the Diamond. It has a snow tongue reaching up into it. The easiest way to do it [involves] staying on the slabs to the left of the snow tongue, and, about 2/3 of the way up, bearing left into a short, steep dihedral which is most easily exited again to the left. A potentially very dangerous 4th and 5th class approach, with dangerous loose rock. Don't do it beneath another party.

Descent 

The rap route on the Diamond off the left side on D7 is becoming very crowded, and I have seen parties ascending D7 become the victims of whiplash. Rude people are just as numerous on the Diamond as anywhere else. The raps start just below Table Ledge, directly above D7 . Nearly all of the anchors (all bolted, 5 in total) are slightly to one side or another--rappel slowly. The Crack of Delight rappels (total of 4) are also all from bolts and thankfully do not actually occur in the North Chimney; they start at the edge of Broadway below the Casual Route (near a Lower East Face route called Crack of Delight - which is South of the North Chimney).

Make sure you head far enough climber's left on the first rappel. If you are at slings and not bolts, you are off-route and your rope will get stuck! Again, rappel slowly.

I prefer to walk off from Table Ledge (not least because when we rappelled, it didn't really feel like we had completed the climb). Once on Kiener's, head steadily up right to find the fourth class step around--if it seems harder, try somewhere else. From the summit (or just above the step around), contour to the north (should not exceed 3rd class or present any exposure) to pick up some cairns which lead to the North Face rappel, off the huge eyebolts which used to anchor the cables (one double or two single rope raps). Head out to the Boulderfield and the trail, or hike down the ridge to Mount Lady Washington (above the Chasm View Wall) until you can descend down talus slopes to the south. Look for a loose gully (the Camel gully) which bears to the right and desposits you on the talus/scree/snow above Chasm Lake. One can also take the Keyhole (hiking) route down from the summit--follow the sign and paint splotches on the rocks.

If you have rappeled D7, you traverse climber's right to the Crack of Delight rappels across the loose and sloping Broadway. Note, that Crack of Delight is South of the North Chimney. See photo. For more details, per Byron Murray: follow a small, but well-defined trail from the base of the Casual Route down through some talus, bending left to kind of a grassy ramp area. The trail terminates, and there may be a couple 4th class moves down a slot to a ledge. Bolts/chains on your left, maybe chest high. 1 short rap (single rope) to a huge ledge. 3 double rope raps from there, last one puts you halfway down the snowfield.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',7],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Diamond:
Casual Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   
Forrest Finish   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   
Pervertical Sanctuary   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
Curving Vine   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
Black Dagger   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   
The Obelisk   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600'   
Yellow Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   
D7   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
Ariana   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
King of Swords   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, Grade V   
D1   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, Grade V   
Hearts and Arrows   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000'   
Full House   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Classics in The Diamond

Featured Route For The Diamond
Charles Vernon prepares for a climb on the Diamond...

Yellow Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Diamond
The Yellow Wall was the second route up the Diamond, completed by Layton Kor in 1962 at V 5.8 A4. Much of the route later went free, most notably the first pitch dihedral by Roger Briggs in 1976, and then later the "A4 Traverse" by Charlie Fowler and Dan Stone in 1978. This last effort marked the free climbing of the original line in its entirety at 5.11b R, although several variations allow the climb to go free at easier and/or safer grades [Editor's Note: Credit goes out to [[Patrick Vernon]...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Diamond Slideshow Add Photo
The Diamond before a (later) rainy day.
The Diamond before a (later) rainy day.
The late Chip Salaun in the early '80s doing botan...
The late Chip Salaun in the early '80s doing botan...
Photo: Olaf Mitchell. Yellow Wall early '80s. A lo...
Photo: Olaf Mitchell. Yellow Wall early '80s. A lo...
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
The guardian of The Diamond!!
The guardian of The Diamond!!
Original Oil Painting of Chasm Lake and The East F...
Original Oil Painting of Chasm Lake and The East F...
Climbers on Casual Route, Yellow Wall, Black Dagge...
Climbers on Casual Route, Yellow Wall, Black Dagge...
The Diamond, illuminated by 4am alpenglow, seen fr...
The Diamond, illuminated by 4am alpenglow, seen fr...
Up close and personal.  Photo taken 8-21-2010.
BETA PHOTO: Up close and personal. Photo taken 8-21-2010.
Stay and play at the Diamond.
BETA PHOTO: Stay and play at the Diamond.
Diamond with its Chasm Lake reflection.
Diamond with its Chasm Lake reflection.
Rapping the North Face cables route
Rapping the North Face cables route
Good high def view of The Diamond.
BETA PHOTO: Good high def view of The Diamond.
Upper Kiener's.
BETA PHOTO: Upper Kiener's.
Nice, yellow, morning light on The Diamond, early ...
Nice, yellow, morning light on The Diamond, early ...
Rapping in from Chasm View
Rapping in from Chasm View
Holy Granite, Batman!
Holy Granite, Batman!
Morning sun on the Diamond
Morning sun on the Diamond
Spring conditions.
BETA PHOTO: Spring conditions.
And another beta photo. Taken from the Camel desce...
BETA PHOTO: And another beta photo. Taken from the Camel desce...
Headwaters of Chasm Lake on a beautiful morning.
Headwaters of Chasm Lake on a beautiful morning.
Photo:Olaf Mitchell. Buc Taylor at the boulder fie...
Photo:Olaf Mitchell. Buc Taylor at the boulder fie...
Diamond in the Buff... brrr.
BETA PHOTO: Diamond in the Buff... brrr.
Diamond on a cold September day.
BETA PHOTO: Diamond on a cold September day.

Show All 56 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on The Diamond Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 17, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 27, 2001
That's one fine lookin' piece of rock!
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 13, 2001
Awesome - Anyone know how long you can climb at Long's in the winter ? Are there any ice routes on this peak? Or just to it's left?
By Chris Cavallaro
Jul 8, 2002
RED WALL! CHASM VIEW WALL! Talking to a ranger, a team reports that an 80ft flake on this climb (unsure which pitch) shifted when weighted. The team reportedly downclimbed, then rappelled off. Sorry for the limited info, but thought this post would at least cause anyone thinking of this route to contact RMNP backcountry office for more updates.
By Bill Wright
Aug 7, 2002
I was in to the East Face cirque this past Monday and conditions in there are very dangerous. Lambs Slide has serious rockfall every 30 minutes - climbing it is practically suicide. While I was in there two climbers were going up Stettner's Ledges and huge rockfall went right over them twice! I thought for sure they were dead the first time. I can't believe they continued up.

Rocks were falling from many places along Broadway. This might have been all climber initiated, but I doubt it. This area is the driest it has been in 50 years and very old ice is melting and releasing tons of rock. Even the moraine below the face is more unstable than normal.

The loose flake on the Red Wall, mentioned above, must be on the third pitch. That matches the topo and I was up on the first two pitches and they are solid. By the way, the "10c" variation on the second pitch of this route seems harder. More like 10d/11a with the lack of stances to place the gear...

Bill
By Chris Cavallaro
Aug 12, 2002
North Chimney vs. Chasm View rappells? Wadda u think? I'm gearing up to do this climb in a few weeks, and I'm hoping for some good opinions..THANKS IN ADVANCE!
By Rich Farnham
Aug 27, 2002
I have previously climbed the chimney to reach Broadway, but yesterday I rapped in from Chasm View and I don't think I will ever do the chimney again. The rappels do add a significant amount of hiking to the day, as you rappel from the equivalent of 2/3 of the way up the Diamond. However, the hiking is mostly good trail until the final climb up the boulderfield and you don't have to deal with the choss of the chimney. Follow directions for the Cable Route, Chasm View is the point on that route when you would start rock climbing as opposed to scrambling up a talus field. The bolts for the rappel are on the "Chasm" side of the block, so you have to lean out over the expanse to see them. It is three rappels to Broadway and the anchors were all easy to find. At the time of this comment there is no snow on Broadway (translation: driest year on record), and the traverse to the base of most of the routes was very easy. I have heard that this traverse may be a little more dicey if there is snow on Broadway.

If you are looking to brag about an ascent of the Diamond to everyone you meet, using the rappels might be considered cheating by some. However if you are like me, and just what to enjoy some fantastic alpine rock climbing and avoid as much choss as possible, consider the rappels.

-Rich Farnham
By Francisco Manzo
Sep 16, 2002
I was here (North Chimmney) on 9/14/02 and if you value your life you will take the rappel approach from Chasm View. The recent rains made for a lot of falling ice and rock!!! Lamb's Slide is a shooting galley also as I attempted to solo Stettner's Ledges to Broadway, I quickly turned back dodging rocks most of the way. Wear a helmet for sure. I got a feeling of bad mojo from the rock fall. Has anyone else?
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Jan 17, 2003
If you are first in the Chimney, and are on time (sunrise or before) the rockfall seems pretty moderate.

If you get passed at the bivies or on the trail, or dally at the lake at sunrise, better paint a bullseye on your helmet.
By Chris Cavallaro
Mar 26, 2003
Does anyone have any beta on the Teeter Totter Pillar on Long's Peak, next to the Notch [Couloir]? Also, any beta on Zumie's Thumb? Thanks!
By Joe Collins
Apr 14, 2003
The stone ranger cabin at the head of the meadow near Chasm Lake was destroyed by a massive avalanche recently, apparently as a result of the Blizzard of 2003. Check out the full story on the Colorado Avalanche Info page at:

geosurvey.state.co.us/avalanch...

I'm sure the rangers who stay there when they climb the Diamond are bummed.

Fortunately for the rest of us, the nearby latrine was spared.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 9, 2003
Hey, I want to climb from the south...via Copeland Lake trailhead. Any comments on that one? Anyone done that one this year? How long? How hard compared to the Key Hole [Route]? Thanks e-mail: waynepyle@attbi.com
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 13, 2004
Can you do the D7 and Crack of Delight raps with 50 meter ropes or do they require 60s?
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2004
The Crack of Delight rappels can be done with two 50-meter ropes. See my comments on Kor's Door for details.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 17, 2004
You can definitely do the D7 rappels with 50m ropes.
By Christa Cline
Aug 19, 2004
For a description of a safe and quick rappel route off the East side of Broadway above the Lower East Face, check out "Alexander's Chimney".
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 29, 2004
I am looking for someone to take highg quality zoom pictures of East Face from Chasm View on Thursday 9/02/04.

Anyone interested?? If so - contact me at wurstertx@yahoo.com

Tks

jack Wurster
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 1, 2004
Anyone been on the Diamond recently? I'm curious what the wetness and ice conditions are like around the Yellow Wall.
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Sep 1, 2004
The Park [received] about 3 or 4 inches of snow last week. Fresh snow is visible on all major ledges and does not appear to be melting.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 14, 2004
Didn't know if you guys heard about the recent death on the summit last Sunday 9-5-04. Sobering thought. Especially since my friends and I just did the route July 30th...excellent weather then.. leave early and miss the crowds going up.. take water.. and enjoy it was terrific. Bit icy in some spots.. just use common sense.
By alpinglow
From: city, state
Oct 5, 2004
Curious if anyone has climbed the Enos Mills wall in the last decade? Didn't Ken Sauls and Johny Allen climb it last winter?

Do you still need iron for the top? Isn't there a bivi ledge on it?

Can consult my guidebook, just thought maybe someone had some first hand beta.

Cheers
By Greaser
Oct 6, 2004
Sounded like a fair question to me. I've known of a few "crazies" that have done the [Diamond] in the winter. So the question sounds reasonable.

Then again maybe I'm [naive].
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 7, 2005
To Shaun Reed - I climbed D7 once around this time of year. The route was plenty dry, but the ice conditions on Broadway were scary. There was also plenty of ice melting and cascading down the wall in shards and plates all day. I'd say go for it, but wear a helmet. I know a friend who tried the Casual Route shortly after in the same year, and he actually got hit by a large sized saucer of ice and luckily wasn't seriously injured but had to retreat. Let us know how it is...
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Aug 22, 2005
You CAN make the Chasm View rappels with a [single] rope as long as it's a 70m. Make CERTAIN you knot your lines and are centered, then rap to the ends, working your way around a short arete/dihedral combination toward the east right at the ends. Gain a nice ledge and look around (up a tad) for an anchor built out of tied off pitons. I would have replaced the webbing, but I was a complete moron and forgot my belay knife.

Rappel 2: Thread the anchor and work back to the SW just as though you were on the "standard" rappel route. Again, ends MUST be knotted. Rappel down the large dihedral to your ends and stop on a dirty, grassy spot in the dihedral. REALLY easy downclimbing gives you one of two options.

Option A: downclimb to Broadway via short 5.4 sections.

Option B: Look on the West side of the trough that is the Chasm View rappel route for yet another anchor from which you may rappel past the easy though heady downclimbing. This anchor is near the level you should end up on after your short downclimb from rap #2's end.

Caveat: I had a 9.1mm, 70m rope with a pretty decent elongation. If your rope is a little less dynamic than others, you may want to bring two instead of my method. Go light, TRY to go fast!!!

~Wm
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Aug 26, 2005
If you leave a pack at the base of the North Chimney, make sure that you bury it or hide it. The ravens know how to use zippers!!!
By Roy Leggett
Sep 6, 2005
FYI- The Park Service and (hopefully) competent volunteers will be doing an East Face/ Diamond clean up on the weekend of Sept 17/18th. The cleanup teams will be ascending Kiener's and rapping in from Table ledge. They will be removing as much tat and bail junk as they can on The D and the Lower E. Face. It might be wise to avoid the area that weekend as it could be a bit of a madhouse.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Sep 7, 2005
My partners and I have been doing a sort of cleanup of our own this year, and have cleaned most of the tat from the Yellow Wall area of the Diamond (Obelisk to Forrest Finish). I filled my backpack last week cleaning 7 pounds of tat off just the Yellow Wall/Forrest Finish route. Many of the manky fixed anchors have been removed completely, so bring bail supplies when you climb up there just in case. Let's try to preserve this amazing place, and keep it a wild adventurous climbing area.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Feb 26, 2007
Check out issue 19 of the Alpinist. There is some great eye candy and good articles by Briggs and the like.
By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
May 6, 2007
What's the earliest it's really advisable to do the Diamond? Can it be done in early June? Or is there too much snow on the ledges?
By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Jun 26, 2007
Check out totalclimbing.com for snow conditions on the Diamond. Go to park conditions, or climbinglife.com
By Ben Walburn
Aug 5, 2008
Helmet loaner, Hey Brett Get in touch with me.
By Ryan Jennings
Aug 29, 2009
We were rappeling the Crack of Delight raps when your pack came tumbling down in the vicinity of Fields Chimney or even farther over towards the lower east face. It seemed a few items fell out along the way too but continued down with the pack. We thought it strange since we were just on Broadway and we were the only party there. There was a team, in the boulders at the base of Mills, that said they watched the pack go straight into the bergshrund. A bit later a grey/black sleeping pad came floating down and the boys in the boulders picked it up. Not much help now but I'd say most of it is in the shrund. No one got hit:)
By Stiles
From: the Mountains
Oct 4, 2009
By phil wortmann
From: Manitou Springs, Co.
Sep 6, 2009

"Don't let Stefan's modesty fool you. He just climbed The Diamond FROM BOULDER in 10 & 1/2 hrs, biking there and back. Great job Stefan & co. Inspiration for the rest of us mortals."
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 8, 2010
Armin asked me to post this: went to Diamond on Wed. All routes were very dripping wet except Pervertical which was wet, too, but not pouring. The last 2 pitches were dry, but the first few had wet cruxes. Some guys were doing the Casual Route that day and got completely drenched.
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 19, 2010
1,481 megapixel panorama of The Diamond.
Requires Adobe Flash to use the GigaPan viewer.

jamesbeissel.com/gigapan/diamo...
By jeremy long
From: BOULDER CO
May 19, 2011
This mountain is alive, and it hates me! I worked trail crew in The Park for about a decade, in '07 7 of us got srtuck by lightning at Granite Pass. Got frostbite on Kiener's in Feb. '01. Been rained off the Diamond too many times to count. I think she's telling me to man up and lead something hard. She demands respect!
By Jordan Moore
From: Boulder, co
Sep 3, 2013
Does any one know if the chasm view rappels can be done with a 60 or 70 meter or are double ropes necessary?
By slim
Administrator
Sep 4, 2013
See William McGehee's comment above.
By William Armstrong
Mar 17, 2014
Found a Yates Screamer w/ blue Metolius biner near Chasm Lake in January. Message me if it's yours, and I'll get it back to you.