Roof area and the lower ramp from the trail.
This section of Redgarden Wall
will cover routes starting below the obvious S-facing roof at the base of Redgarden Wall
starting L of Jules Verne
and beginning with Clever Lever and extending to Le Toit
and Rosy Toit
. For those wondering, routes starting here but continuing on will be included in this section.
The Roof Routes probably contain the most sport-like climbing in all of Eldorado Canyon
. The first 40 to 60 feet of these routes involve delicate face climbing on mostly bullet-proof, fine grained, Fountain Formation sandstone. The next section involves a roof bit anywhere from about 8 to 15 feet in length. Then above, there is wonderful face climbing characterized by exposure and spartan protection options. Interestingly, this lower section is probably one of the few places in the area that can
be climbed during precipitation, if it is not blowing sideways.
Perhaps, one of the most famous stories for this section of the cliff is that on Layton Kor's Kloeberdanz
. A fascinating section in Climb!
describes Steve Wunsch's story of the freeing of Kloeberdanz
, which is accompanied by images of hot Henry Barber dynamically flying for the lip of the roof and the story. Here, the teenage David Breashears, a.k.a. the Kloeberdanz kid, strolled up to the Briggs brothers working the route and statically walked the 1st pitch 2nd try! as described in Climb!
and continued in the oral tradition.
Where do you start with classics? You could probably almost call each and every route here a classic. Some do. Every route here is probably someone's favorite. So, please, take no offense with any inclusion or exclusion.
Some of the classics here include: the verve-requiring Temporary Like Achilles
, 5.10d s; Le Toit
, 5.10d s; Le Verne
, 5.10d s; the classic Guenese
, 5.11a; the nervy Evangeline
, 5.11b/c A1; the reachy Fire and Ice
, 5.12a; 5.12a; Hands in the Clouds
, 5.12a; the intimidating route, The Wisdom
, 5.12a s; Downpressor Man
, 5.12b; Scary Canary
, 5.12b s; Wasabe
, 5.12c; the impressive Psycho
, 5.12c (possibly CO's 1st 5.12); Kloeberdeath
, 5.13b; The Undertaker, 5.13d (by visiting Ben Moon), probably Eldo's hardest (perhaps with the exception of Matt Segal's Iron Monkey?), .
The lower end climber will find nothing to climb here. Probably, you need to be climbing solid 5.11 to find much joy here, except to watch.
To approach this section of the Redgarden Wall, you park at the E end of the park. Hike to the bridge, cross the bridge, hike W along the base of Whale's Tail. Continue across the concrete pad, follow the trail. At the fork, go R. Continue up the switchbacks and you will be close to the start of T2. Head uphill and L to the obvious section under the long roof and find you routes.
Weather station 0.2 miles from here
30 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Redgarden - Roof Routes
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redgarden - Roof Routes:
Rosy Toit 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Le Toit 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 3 pitches
Guenese 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches
The Gem 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Evangeline 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
A1 Sport, Aid, 3 pitches
Kloeberdanz 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
R Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
The Wisdom 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
R Trad, 4 pitches
Fire and Ice 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
PG13 Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
Clever Lever 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Huck Off 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport
Scary Canary 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
R Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Wasabe 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch
Psycho 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport, 3 pitches
Featured Route For Redgarden - Roof Routes
Guenese 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c CO
: Eldorado Canyon SP
: ... : Redgarden - Roof Routes
This is a really fun route. The start is .10- and has a kind of bad fall potential. Climb the face up to the roof .10+ and crank over the roof on jugs immediately after .10. If you do this in one pitch, it feels about .11b (still easier than super spar!) because of the pump factor. There are bolts over the roof you can rap off of. Another option is to climb to the bolts below the roof (.10+) and set a toprope here. If you want, you can climb some 5.8 from this lower anchor to the anchor atop [[D...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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