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Penny Lane
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Quarryman 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Robin Barley, P. Shackleton 1981
Page Views: 1,702
Submitted By: ScottH on Sep 9, 2006
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gblauer on Quarryman. You can only see the first ...
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Quarryman climbs an obvious, large, left-facing corner on the left side of the Penny Lane cliff band. Scramble on top of a large boulder to start. Fun, cruiser climbing leads to the top of the dihedral. Follow a crack up the steep left face out of the dihedral and around the corner to a balancy hand crack which continues up to the anchor. Nice moves and good gear the whole way.


Protection 

Gear to 2". A couple of hand-size pieces for the upper crack.



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By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2011

crazy good! if this climb were in Boulder it would be the best granite crack under 5.11 in the area. Go left around the roof or you will end up in an 10b seam (which is sweet so you should go that way if that's in your ballpark).

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 8, 2011

Awesome, fun, goodness. bouldery start leads to a fun corner with great, airy exit moves. Balance yourself into the crack and get started up to the chains.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The direct finish is also somewhat wet at the crux (which flares) if it has been raining and feels about right for 10b in that condition. But it protects well enough to be of small concern.

By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Sep 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great beginner route with lots of pro but, make sure you place the gear properly. I watched a beginner trad leader take a massive whipper from the very end, have a piece pull and pendulumed into the initial ramp.