Popular Mechanics 

Great route with rock that always reminds me of Tahquitz. Four stars out of five.

I agree that this rock feels like Taquitz rock. Smooth and not as much friction as other Jtree rock. This route reminded me of "El Camino Real" at Taquitz, although much easier.

Great climb for hot days. It is away from the sun all day.

I'm going with two stars on this one. It has some really good moves.........

Much fun with good, easy, pro placement.

This is one of the best routes I have done at JTree. My partner and I find the rock there to be like a cross between Yosemite and Tuulomne granite. 4 out of 5 stars. It is well worth the short hike, long for some of you, to this area to do a couple of climbs here.

Beta:
A #4 Camalot fits well in a spot at knee level once you are on top of the starting block. Red alien fits well at the very top of the second hand pod before the section of the climb where the crack peters out for a bit. You want to get a solid piece here as it is almost run out to the next piece. Jugs will save the day right when you start to feel the runout. Bring extra medium gear: green aliens thru red aliens or purple camalots. Bolts and rap rings at top.

Takes great pro. Short section down low gets you thinking but easily passed. Fun, multi-star route and worth the trip when coupled with other classics in the area.

~Susan

Superb fingercrack in a corner on some of the best rock in Joshua Tree with a short crux. Tons of fun, but get there first as the approach is longer and there aren't too many options once you're waiting behind a party.

Spoiler Gear Beta: The crux is nicely protected by a #1 camalot in the first hand pod, then preferably a green #0 C3 (green #6 BD Stopper is ok) in the highest reachable slot before doing the crux moves.

Fantastic. Crux is in the first 25 feet, before you get to Ace of Spades. The new Miramontes guide has this as a 10a. Typo? Felt like solid 5.9 to me, no harder than Pope's or Touch and Go. The final 30 feet after the Ace of Spades intersection looks harder than it is. Just good white granite fun. Great pro.

Chris, Randy, Adam, Mike.....when did the bolted anchor appear? It wasn't put in on the 1st ascent. While it is extremely helpful, because the walk off is heinous, similar post FA anchors (ie. Gargoyle/Canaliso, Silent Scream, etc) have been removed. What's the justification?

Not sure when the original anchor went in but it was replaced around 1994 or so and at that time the rusty 1/4" bolts were definitely in need of repair, so perhaps sometime in the late 70's/early 80's .

Super dope. A breeze to protect. My first Josh 5.9 lead and I couldn't ask for anything better.

This route never gets old. One of the best in the park. Combine it with doing Ace of Spades doing these two classics on Dover makes for an amazing half day.

Sartin/Gaines just put up a new FA called Field and Stream to the right of this. Look for the nut sticking out below a bolt that's hard up enough to make it a far harder start that the usual 10c.

The rest of the route is genius. Hard, but genius. Bolted with some gear. Well worth it.

Another Fantastic Route at the White Cliffs! The Crux is down low for sure, shares the crux with Ace of Spades in my opinion! Super aesthetic route with some high quality lay backing! A must do in the area!! Fine Rock quality as well!!! Do IT!!!

hollywood finger crack. this would be a yose 5.8 cant get anymore locker than this. not pg13 by any means there is a short 6 foot section with no pro but its easy.