The route begins under the crack that splits the middle of the Brass Wall Left face and runs into the right side of a bushy ledge. Start underneath a large boulder.
Pitches 1 and 2 (5.7) follow the first two pitches of Birdland up the crack to a ledge and then up (or next to, depending on how you are feeling) the chimney system to a large bushy ledge. Bolted anchors.
Pitch 3 (5.3): Scramble left up some bouldery pillar features to the base of the enormous right-facing corner at the bottom of the obvious crack and build a trad anchor. 50 feet.
Pitch 4 (5.8): Climb the crack through the center of the varnished face. It starts wide and narrows to hand size before running into a lip, which forms the short crux of the climb with good hands but little feet. Finish up as the crack narrows to finger size with good face holds to a bolted anchor and rap slings. This pitch is the reason to climb this route!
Pitches 5 and 6 (5.7 R): Not recommended. Climb the face to the top of the cliff.
Rappel with 2 ropes.
Protection
Standard Red Rock rack to a number 3 camalot. I found a set of nuts very useful on this climb.
Pitch 4 was wonderful. Use your feet, they will stick better than you think.
Pitches 5 & 6 reminded me of Sunspot Ridge. If you go that far, bring a long sling or cordalette for the final anchor. You can rap the chimney to climber's right of the the route, there are slung boulders every 100 ft or so. But bring some webbing or cord to leave behind, as most of what is there is brittle. We did 2 raps down the chimney and then went out to the third stance on Birdland.
Really good, and not much wide crack climbing despite what it looks like. The crux (fingers past a tiny roof) is perfectly protected and very clean. But it is significantly harder than either Straight Shooter or the final pitch on Frigid Air Buttress (both called 5.9 or 5.9+), and so I'd call it a couple moves of 5.10a, which is of course standard for "old school 5.8" - especially Joe Herbst 5.8!
By Chris Darr From: Denver, Co Apr 30, 2008 rating: 5.8 R
Descent information in the Brock/McMillen guidebook is dangerously vague. We took the climb to the 7th pitch to find that walking over to rap Spectrum was impossible and getting to the Beer and Ice gulley would have been grueling at best. However I will say that the top of the climb exposed a beautiful slot canyon and a perfect place for an emergency bivy - as evidenced by an old fire ring and rock shelter. After time spent exploring (in spite of poor descent info it truly was a beautiful and secluded summit area) we down climbed the chimney to the top of the 5th pitch and did three double rop raps to the base of the crux pitch.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 19, 2008 rating: 5.9+
We approached the classic "money" pitch on Big Horn by climbing the first two pitches of Rawlpindi which I thought made for a better start than trying to get on the crowded Birdland. Great route! I'll agree Greg, the crux is harder than 5.8 and harder than a bunch of routes rated 5.9 at Red Rocks. Two moves in a row from a flaring finger crack with poor feet. Great pro, though, so load up and fire it!
Here's another route that would benefit from a separate rap anchor, straight down the first two pitches of Rawlpindi. There's a bunch of rope eatin' terrain to rappel off the good Big Horn pitch (180'!) all the way to the 2nd pitch rap anchor on Birdland. Then, you end up tossin' ropes either on folks climbing up from below, or standing in line waiting to rappel that route.
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