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Military Wall
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All Things Considered 
Another Doug Reed Route 
Beene Material 
BeeneStalker (closed) 
Blade Runner (closed) 
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) 
Danita Dolores 
Decay's Way 
Forearm Follies 
Fuzzy Undercling 
G.I. 
Government Cheese 
Gung Ho 
In the Light 
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Left Turret 
Legend, The 
Mercy Miss Percy 
Minimum Creep 
Moonbeam 
Mule 
Nagypapa 
Nicorette 
Nothing for Now 
Parting Gift 
Pink Feat Boulder Problem 
Possum Lips 
Reliquary, The 
Stay Left 
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) 
Sunshine 
Super Slab 
Things That Go Bump In the Night 
Thirsting Skull (closed) 
Tissue Tiger 
Unsorted Routes:

Fuzzy Undercling 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P. Jarrard, P. Olenick, R. Turan, M. Williams, 1990
Season: Any
Page Views: 10,148
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (214)
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Lindsay Reareon on Fuzzy. This angle shows the ro...

Description 

A good climb with a technical crux down low, perhaps 2 bolts up, and then on pumpy pockets the rest of the way up with some big moves. Which feels harder to you depends on your skills set. The route was commonly done in flip-flops or hiking boots.
The name of this climb, I believe to be a not-so-subtle euphemism... either that or there was some moss in a pocket in the early days. Regardless, I doubt the latter was the sole motivation behind the route's name.


Location 

From the left branch of the approach trail, you first encounter the "triplet" climbs, Sunshine, Moonbeam, and Into the Light. While these are at your right shoulder, you can look further on to the routes on a massive overhanging buttress. These are (from right to left) Fuzzy Undercling, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, and Reliquary. To the right of these, there is a huge, wide inset with a single bolted line up a slab on the left side, Possum Lips.


Protection 

6 bolts to a fixed anchor. The top anchor has moved a few times over the years to alternately extend the climb and then to reduce drag, back and forth at least once.



Photos of Fuzzy Undercling Slideshow Add Photo
Narissa cruising Fuzzy Undercling at Military Wall.
Narissa cruising Fuzzy Undercling at Military Wall...
Me high up on route. My personal beta for the start is to be Confident dynamic and tall. ( 2 out of 3 aint bad either ) Basically hop up into a quick layback on the well chalked line, right hand to the large slopey hold to the right of layback, then just go big into the obvious undercling with your leftand pull pull pull your self up to a reasonable position to easily obtain the first of many huge buckets.
Me high up on route. My personal beta for the star...
No hands rest
BETA PHOTO: No hands rest
Fuzzy Undercling
Fuzzy Undercling
frank approaching the no-hands rest
frank approaching the no-hands rest
Mike getting some rest before finishing the RP.
Mike getting some rest before finishing the RP.
Erik low on Fuzzy Undercling.
Erik low on Fuzzy Undercling.
Fuzzy Undercling- Sept. 2000
Fuzzy Undercling- Sept. 2000
Dylan Colon sending Fuzzy Undercling.
Dylan Colon sending Fuzzy Undercling.
How to fall...
How to fall...
Fuzzy
Fuzzy
sending Fuzzy
sending Fuzzy
Bouldery moves off the deck. (ca. 2003)
Bouldery moves off the deck. (ca. 2003)
Fuzzy Undercling.
Fuzzy Undercling.
Tyler Casey Fuzzy Undercling, Crux Start
Tyler Casey Fuzzy Undercling, Crux Start
Otey at the sweet kneebar rest on Fuzzy...
Otey at the sweet kneebar rest on Fuzzy...
Thomas taking a well deserved rest
BETA PHOTO: Thomas taking a well deserved rest
Comments on Fuzzy Undercling Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 3, 2014
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Mar 18, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I could not get the start of this..above my head, but I will be back for a rematch!!

By 426
Apr 2, 2007

Ultra...classic...

By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Sep 14, 2008

I had heard the route got it's name because there was a bat in an undercling during the first ascent.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 28, 2009

The first move off the ground (no stacked rocks) was at least as hard as any of the moves of the 3 5.12's to the left.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2009

There is a toe out to the right you can hook to solve that start- see if it doesn't feel easier that way. I've done it in flip-flops and hiking boots, but those other routes to the left I always found difficult.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 9, 2009

Apparently there used to be a tree stump near by that you could stand on to skip the very polished and slopey starting holds.

By Phill T
Dec 10, 2010

V-hard boulder crux off the ground to a 5.9 jughaul with a double knee bar no hands rest in the middle. Not sure why this is such a 'must do' route with such inconsistency. Fun for sure and worth getting on, but its no 5 star classic.

By S. Neoh
Dec 10, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I agree with Phill; IMHO, this route is over hyped. I thought Air Ride Equipped and Whipstocking are both better as climbs of approx the same grade.
Stick clip the first bolt as the slick, starting footholds tend to be covered with a coating of sand and dust, due to the route's popularity.
Update: I thought the right flake one could use to clip the sixth bolt from is now a bit loose/weak. One could as easily clip using the left jug just a foot or so over.

By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 14, 2011

^ +1

By ptrgeorge
From: Houston, TX
Oct 17, 2012

start move was harder than any move on any of the twelves I have tried at the red

By Scorl
Jan 20, 2013

I'll just throw my 2-cents at this route: I'm tall, 6'3", but found that my comfortable start holds were past the "V-hard" boulder move that a few other people have mentioned. Though the crux was still there around the second bolt. I vaguely remember something about a 2 finger pocket and a hard match before the clip. Enjoyable route and the easier than I thought it would be.

By Jordan K
From: Ohio
Mar 3, 2014

Tricky start to a jug haul on massive holds. Fun!

Freshly rebolted a couple of days ago (end Feb '14) with glue-ins with new anchors & chains.