|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||P. Jarrard, P. Olenick, R. Turan, M. Williams, 1990|
|Page Views: ||9,801|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 6, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Lindsay Reareon on Fuzzy. This angle shows the ro...
A good climb with a technical crux down low, perhaps 2 bolts up, and then on pumpy pockets the rest of the way up with some big moves. Which feels harder to you depends on your skills set. The route was commonly done in flip-flops or hiking boots.
The name of this climb, I believe to be a not-so-subtle euphemism... either that or there was some moss in a pocket in the early days. Regardless, I doubt the latter was the sole motivation behind the route's name.
From the left branch of the approach trail, you first encounter the "triplet" climbs, Sunshine, Moonbeam, and Into the Light. While these are at your right shoulder, you can look further on to the routes on a massive overhanging buttress. These are (from right to left) Fuzzy Undercling, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, and Reliquary. To the right of these, there is a huge, wide inset with a single bolted line up a slab on the left side, Possum Lips.
6 bolts to a fixed anchor. The top anchor has moved a few times over the years to alternately extend the climb and then to reduce drag, back and forth at least once.
|Comments on Fuzzy Undercling
|By Jim Matt|
From: Indianapolis, IN
Mar 18, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
I could not get the start of this..above my head, but I will be back for a rematch!!
Apr 2, 2007
|By Tom R|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 14, 2008
I had heard the route got it's name because there was a bat in an undercling during the first ascent.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 28, 2009
The first move off the ground (no stacked rocks) was at least as hard as any of the moves of the 3 5.12's to the left.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2009
There is a toe out to the right you can hook to solve that start- see if it doesn't feel easier that way. I've done it in flip-flops and hiking boots, but those other routes to the left I always found difficult.
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 9, 2009
Apparently there used to be a tree stump near by that you could stand on to skip the very polished and slopey starting holds.
|By Phill T|
Dec 10, 2010
V-hard boulder crux off the ground to a 5.9 jughaul with a double knee bar no hands rest in the middle. Not sure why this is such a 'must do' route with such inconsistency. Fun for sure and worth getting on, but its no 5 star classic.
|By S. Neoh|
Dec 10, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
I agree with Phill; IMHO, this route is over hyped. I thought Air Ride Equipped and Whipstocking are both better as climbs of approx the same grade.
Stick clip the first bolt as the slick, starting footholds tend to be covered with a coating of sand and dust, due to the route's popularity.
Update: I thought the right flake one could use to clip the sixth bolt from is now a bit loose/weak. One could as easily clip using the left jug just a foot or so over.
|By J tot|
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 14, 2011
From: Houston, TX
Oct 17, 2012
start move was harder than any move on any of the twelves I have tried at the red
Jan 20, 2013
I'll just throw my 2-cents at this route: I'm tall, 6'3", but found that my comfortable start holds were past the "V-hard" boulder move that a few other people have mentioned. Though the crux was still there around the second bolt. I vaguely remember something about a 2 finger pocket and a hard match before the clip. Enjoyable route and the easier than I thought it would be.
|By Jordan K|
Mar 3, 2014
Tricky start to a jug haul on massive holds. Fun!
Freshly rebolted a couple of days ago (end Feb '14) with glue-ins with new anchors & chains.