Dessert Dike a convenient finish for the climbs ending on the left side of the Apron - we did it after finishing Snake. You can climb this route as an alternative to thrashing up the gully to reach the Broadway descent.
The climbing follows a small dike, and is somewhat spicy for the grade. I wouldn't call it runout (except the first 30-40 feet), but I also wouldn't call it closely bolted.
Pad up the slab (5.9ish) to reach the dike and then follow it upwards. Your first piece is about 30-40 feet up - but the climbing is pretty easy. I got a dodgy green camalot (or a manky nut, your choice). I bet a pick tricam would work perfecty here. One more move up and then a bomber small nut can be placed out left. Continue upwards to the first bolt. Three more bolts protect thin face climbing to the top.
Top of the Apron, right of the gully leading to Memorial Ledge/Broadway.
I placed a green camalot, small nut, and yellow mastercam. Then three bolts to the top.
|By Colin Parker|
From: Idyllwild, CA
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I would say that the first gear is 20-25 feet off the ground and the climbing is easy past the initial moves. This is a pretty safe lead, with the bolts at the cruxes. I thought this was the best pitch of climbing on a day linking Snake to Butt Face.