Dessert Dike  5.10a PG13

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Season:  Typical Squamish Submitted By:  Andy Laakmann on Aug 7, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Dessert Dike a convenient finish for the climbs ending on the left side of the Apron - we did it after finishing Snake. You can climb this route as an alternative to thrashing up the gully to reach the Broadway descent.

The climbing follows a small dike, and is somewhat spicy for the grade. I wouldn't call it runout (except the first 30-40 feet), but I also wouldn't call it closely bolted.

Pad up the slab (5.9ish) to reach the dike and then follow it upwards. Your first piece is about 30-40 feet up - but the climbing is pretty easy. I got a dodgy green camalot (or a manky nut, your choice). I bet a pick tricam would work perfecty here. One more move up and then a bomber small nut can be placed out left. Continue upwards to the first bolt. Three more bolts protect thin face climbing to the top.

Location 

Top of the Apron, right of the gully leading to Memorial Ledge/Broadway.

Protection 

I placed a green camalot, small nut, and yellow mastercam. Then three bolts to the top.