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Crime Of The Century 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Peter Croft, Tami Knight 1978
Page Views: 10,157
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (88)
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a legendary Squamish finger crack that starts just left of Penny Lane.

Start with a few boulder moves off the ground, this leads to a great finger crack above.

Protection 

Small finger size gear and nuts.


Photos of Crime Of The Century Slideshow Add Photo
dave again...
dave again...
Kate Eisen on Crime of the Century
Kate Eisen on Crime of the Century
finger locking
finger locking
Nearing the switching cracks crux on Crime of the ...
Nearing the switching cracks crux on Crime of the ...
Crime of the Century.  Photo of Connor Reynolds by...
Crime of the Century. Photo of Connor Reynolds by...
Dave P. on a fine spring day
Dave P. on a fine spring day
Crime of the Century. Photo by Ron Long
Crime of the Century. Photo by Ron Long
Crime of the Century
Crime of the Century
Think you can fit your fingers in there?
BETA PHOTO: Think you can fit your fingers in there?
Rick starting up Crime of the Century, with Penny ...
Rick starting up Crime of the Century, with Penny ...

Comments on Crime Of The Century Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 26, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

What a great cack. I thought this climb was much harder than it looked. Intense jamming all the way with excellent gear. This is the finger crack against which all other finger cracks should be judged.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 24, 2007

Those are some high accolades Jay. I always thought of Butterballs and Equinox like that. I'll have to get out there and see for myself. My wife and I will be in Whistler in September.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

spectacular- doesnt let up for a minute! great route- need to get back and lead it before we leave!
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jul 14, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

fun route with good gear. I wouldn't go a route which all finger cracks are judged against. First time I did it in 2001 my pinkie went numb from the first move.

I've done it several times since and I have to say for as low of an angle , it probably does deserve the 5.11b/c since the feet are slimy and the finger locks while positive , are really positive (ie: as said before, my fingers protest). Gear is great and is a good route to push your limit on.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I have thin fingers and all, but I still thought it was shallow and flaring at the hardest moves. Definately more insecure than hard. I think of hard finger cracks as being biting and hard more than just too insecure to get purchase in... then again, perhaps better shade or cooler weather would have helped.
The crux was switching from left side to right in my case. or rather, not having noticed that I should have until too late...
By slim
Administrator
Jul 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

yeah, i remember the crack switch being the crux, hot temps making it feel a bit slippery, and 12 straight days of finger cracks making my pinkies and index fingers protest.
By Brandontru
From: Nevada
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Did this back a few years ago. Memorable indeed. Had my first fall on my first bit of gear. Thank you TCU's you saved my life :)


Small gear and stoppers, good stuff.
By crankenstein
Apr 8, 2011

Absolutely awesome finger crack. This and Clean Crack were a couple of the best short climbs I did there!
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Flashed this one yesterday after years of walking by it and thinking "some day". Getting from the first finger lock to the second was the hardest part for me (ie. getting off the ground :P). After that it felt like it was all there with the only real struggle being the last one or two moves.

Beautiful line with every hold being just what you need.

Stellar!