The Scenic Cruise is one of the very best routes I've done in Colorado. It ascends one of the steepest and biggest cliffs in the state, offering great jamming and devious, exciting face sequences. Factor in a considerable adventure factor, in a sublime and unique setting, and...you just have to climb it for yourself!
Brief history: the Scenic Cruise is actually a major 4-pitch variation to the Cruise, a route of 12 or so pitches that ascends the 1700' SE face of North Chasm View Wall. The Cruise was first ascended by Layton Kor and Larry Dalke in 1964, and christened the South Face. In the mid-70s, Earl Wiggins and Jim Dunn free-climbed the route in a day. Climbing according to the motto of "a rope, a rack, and the shirt on your back", they figured to have earned the right to re-name it "The Cruise". Three years later, Ed Webster and Joe Kaelin discovered the Scenic Cruise variation, thus avoiding a 5.10 OW pitch but adding a 5.10 R pitch. Amazingly, Wiggins then made the second ascent of the whole line with this variation-- in an hour and a half, free-solo! As if that weren't enough, Derek Hershey free-soloed the route in 1990 as the first of three Black Canyon solos in a day (the other 2 being Journey Home and Leisure Climb). Whew! I was just happy to survive!
To find the start of the route, descend the Cruise Gully. After the second rappel, continue following the base of the rock until reaching a large right facing corner, about 200 feet high, which becomes noticeably acute after its initial section. Above it is a low-angled, ledgy section; above that, the obvious, parallel cracks (in a smooth vertical wall) of the Cruise (left) and Scenic Cruise.
P1 - Ascend the 5.9 arete left of the corner, then step in and climb easily for a full ropelength to an uncomfortable belay.
P2 - Climb over a 5.8 roof and go up over broken grassy ground, past fixed slings to belay on the last ledge below a much steeper wall section. The Scenic Cruise splits from the Cruise here. We simul-climbed these pitches, which seemed pretty reasonable as there is only one 5.8 move after the initial 5.9 off the ground.
P3 - Lead up and right over a 5.10- roof, and continue up the crack to a belay in a small inset.
P4 - Exit the inset on the left and jam the continuous crack for 100 feet to a small stance with some fixed gear, fantastic 5.10-.
P5 - Jam the unrelenting but excellent hand and finger crack with many 5.10 sections, a harder version of the previous pitch. I thought this pitch was undoubtedly the crux of the whole climb. Belay upon reaching a band of pegmatite.
P6 - The infamous Pegmatite Traverse, which rejoins the Cruise--a masterpiece of route-finding by the Webster and Kaelin. Climb up from the belay and then slightly left, thereby avoiding a prominent corner/inset (site of a fixed pin). Ascend a short 5.9+ crack in the pegmatite (3 friend helpful), then hand-traverse inobviously left on slopers, also 5.9. This achieves a stance on a down-slanting ramp. Reach back and sling a horn above the slopers: your best protection through the pitch's upcoming crux. An obvious flake/arete lies left of the ramp; climb that (5.10- R) and continue up another crack to a fixed belay with slings around a block. A variation goes up into the corner/inset and traverses out and then down to the ramp at a fixed sling: reputedly much harder, but easily aided with the sling.
P7 - Traverse 15 feet left and ascend a 5.10+ corner with sustained stemming and liebacking, some dubious rock, but adequate gear (first ascenscionists though this was the crux). Make an awkward traverse right under a roof, and then ascend a hand crack in another corner. Above this continue up two sections of 5.8 OW; however, a 60 M rope is required for this. Other wise, belay below the first OW.
P8 - From the nice flat ledge above the OWs, climb the corner on the right past a nasty bush. Continue up and left on easy ground and stretch the lead past a corner with several wedged blocks.
P9 - Go left on the ledge to a small flake, and make an exposed move around it, almost downclimbing. From the alcove on the other side, chimney behind a massive flake up and right to a new bolt belay. Clever rope handling is necessary on this short pitch.
P10 - Follow a narrow, exposed ledge straight right, then angle up and right past three bolts with several insecure 5.9 moves. The last bolt is missing a hanger. Continue up and right through another pegmatite band to a nice belay ledge below a flared chimney/dihedral.
P11 - Make an extremely awkward 5.10 move into the chimney, continue to a ledge, and head left for about 30 feet to the next crack system; belay where convenient.
P12 - Head up the crack/corner (with a fixed #3 camalot) for a very long 5.9 pitch and arrange a belay. A variation which is often described as the standard line climbs gradually up and left from the ledge above the chimney on scary 5.9 face and flakes and rejoins the line.
P13 - Continue up the crack, through an overhanging 5.9+ corner to 4th class terrain. Scramble to the top! From the belay below this pitch, it looked considerably easier to go to the next corner right, but we decided to stick to the topo.
Noteworthy addendums: There is a lot of poison ivy at the base of the climb. Also, the Black has a reputation for loose rock which is probably well-deserved, but this route actually seemed pretty solid, despite some flaky stuff on the upper pitches. Going in, I was really worried about the Pegmatite traverse. You certainly don't want to fall--it would be a big swing-- but you're not going to die by any means. If you are solid at 5.10, it shouldn't scare you off. The "American Classics" issue of Rock and Ice from a year or two ago actually makes this pitch sound worse than it is, IMHO. The pitches before and after it are much, much harder (e.g., I fell off the preceding pitch multiple times while following, and still felt solid leading the Peg traverse). The supposed crux pitch (after the Peg traverse) is practically as serious for the first 30 or so feet, due to lack of pro and a suspect flake.
My partner combined pitches 4 and 5 into one stupendous 200 foot lead, but I can't recommend this unless you lead 5.11. Most 5.10 leaders will have all they can handle doing that section as two pitches. With a 60M rope it is possible to shorten the climb by 2-3 pitches. This is probably the most traveled route in the Black, so start early and wear a helmet!
Protection
The amount of gear depends on how many 60M pitches you intend to do. If linking as many pitches as possible, bring doubles of everything to a 3 friend; otherwise, one complete set with doubles in mid-sized friends will work. In either case, toss in an OW piece and a few rps. Bring a healthy dose of long runners.
I struggled mightily to make sure everything sounded right so I wouldn't have to add a comment...but I failed. Two things: 1) re/gear--in additioon to bringing an OW piece, also bring a 3.5 friend/3 camalot...2) a couple landmarks for finding the start of the route: after the second rappel in the Cruise Gully, you have to continue a ways down along the base of the cliff. Specifically, go a ways past a huge cleft which runs the entire length of the wall, a huge RF corner just left of the cleft, about halfway up, and a large LF corner, also halfway up (Journey Home), just left of that.
Good description by Charles Vernon. A few additional comments: End pitch 1 under the second roof. It is a poor stance, but it is protected from rockfall (the second pitch could easily generate some). Pitches 3 & 4 can be combined with a 60 m rope. The variation he reported for pitch 6 is not bad. You climb up the corner directly above the belay for about 30' and reach way around the arete to your left to clip a sling. Hand traverse around the arete and back up the the fixed piece (it will be the last piece you can get in for a while). Down climb the ramp and climb up the rounded Pegemite lieback to the block with slings. On pitch 7, there is a chockstone in the crack that can be slung just before traversing right under the roof. On pitch 8, about 30' after passing the bush, leave the wide crack and do a rising traverse left to a good ledge (one person could bivy here). This keeps down the rope drag on the following pitch (plus it is a nice belay spot).
To find the Cruise Gully, go halfway between the campground and the ranger station and look for a trail on the South side. About 40' along this trail is a sign saying that this is the Cruise Gully.
Alternative pitch description: P1: Climb the entire initial corner, and the broken rock and short corner above in one pitch, belaying at the top-most stance where Cruise diverges. 5.8, 85m, simul-climbing required. P2: Climb right and up, through the 5.9/5.10 bulge and continue up crack to old slings at a stance. 5.10, 55m. P3: Continue up the crack to the end at a ramp right, continue up through pegmatite and the peg traverse, moving left to belay at a spike almost below the crux corner. 5.10, 55+m. P4: Climb the corner, step right and up some wide cracks to a flat ledge with an old bolt, on your right. 5.10, 50m. P5: Step left, up a crack, then lower angle face leading to left side of big flakes. Climb around flakes on left and up and right to 2-bolt anchor. 5.9, 55m. P6: Traverse right, climb short bolted face, then up and right on peg to a bulge with a crack, then up to good ledge below final broken headwall. 5.9, 55m. P7: Traverse left to a crack/corner system, then straight up past small overhangs to broken ledges below the terrace. 5.9, 75m, simul-climbing required. Carefully climb up and right to get top the terrace. Walk left almost to the end to a short class 4 break and the rim.
I wouldn't particularly recommend going by some of the A.C.'s description (with some exceptions, we simul-climbed for the first pitch as described) unless you have done the route before, and/or are solid on 5.11. P3 & P5 in particular might present rope drag and route finding issues. Never-the-less, it would be a great way to do the route fast, while keeping simul-climbing to a minimum.
Please note that the route description in the new Black Canyon guidebook contains a significant error, i.e. the pegmatite traverse is described as going right, whereas we all know it as a leftwards' traverse.
For those desiring a little obscure tidbit, on the original FFA of the Cruise by Dunn & Wiggins they did not climb the now-popularized "crux corner" on the pitch above where the Cruise and Scenic Cruise meet (right after the peg traverse). Instead they climbed what is now referred to as the "Wiggins finger crack". This takes off to the right of the corner, near the horn where people belay after the peg traverse. It is difficult (5.11), sustained, long, and slightly under-nourished in the protection department, but quite good climbing. This is also the purported aid line on the original Kor-Dalke.
According to www.speedclimbing.com the record is 3 and 1/2 hours, by Jim Dunn and Kerry Gunther. Slower than the Nose (of El Cap)--guess that makes this a grade VI ;)
Charles, the record you mention is car-to-car. It seems possible that they took 45 minutes to descend the gully and rope up. That would put the route time at 2h45 and faster than the new Nose record. :-)
This route is MUCH shorter than the Nose of El Cap (15 pitches vs. 33 pitches) and MUCH easier (5.10d vs. 5.14). Hans and Yuji would likely be able to do this route (after climbing it at least once or twice) in well under two hours, probably under 90 minutes, and maybe under an hour.
That said, it is more than enough route to kick my butt. We did it in 14 hours car-to-car, I think. Had some trouble finding the easiest way up top and had to do some aid to get off. Clearly I was off route there. A fun adventure route.
The rules should be a little different for speedcliming the Scenic Cruise vs something on El Cap. On the SC both climbers should free climb every pitch. So jugging, short roping, pulling on a piece, etc are out- not that these techniques are at all required to climb this route fast.
Charle's route description is quite good. Couple of points: combining pitches 4 & 5 isn't that bad. While these pitches are pumpy, there are quite a few rests to recoup energy. On pitch 8, I wouldn't recommend the crack on the right through the nasty bush. The crack on the left has got a little shit in it, but will allow you to make it to the top of the flake in one pitch. Prudent runner use will alleviate rope drag.
Somebody once told me they thought this route was the best climb in Colorado. I don't know about that but it's pretty good. How can their be a best or favorite climb anywhere? Aren't all climbs really different and every experience different? You hear climbers say it a lot: "Thats the best climb I've ever done" . I just think it's a weird statement, especially coming from the mouths of talented experienced climbers. Whoa! I'm babbling, I'm injured and I 've eaten too much percocet . Sorry.
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 14, 2004
I climbed the route for the first time with Kerry Gunter on June 11th or so this year. The weather was perfect and we were one of four total parties in the whole canyon. Climbing here in June is recommended if you just watch the weather and pick a cooler day.
We did the route in 9 pitches with a 70M rope, rim-to-rim in 8 hours.
We climbed a 2 pitch variation at the top of the route. Instead of going left, continue up on steep edges and flakes, trending slightly left towards the end of the pitch. Belay on a nice ledge with a right facing flake/corner system above you, and a steep right facing corner above that. This pitch was about 9+ but with somewhat questionable pro, but great climbing.
The last pitch of this variation goes straight up the steep overhanging corner, and steps right around the small roof at the top of the corner (about 10b or 10c, with a fixed wire at the crux). Continue up and slightly left around a corner to a large left facing corner, which leads to a 2 or 3 move hand traverse right to the top of the wall and the walk-off.
Upper version of the peg traverse: Not Recommended. It's hard, not real safe, and the second ends up downclimbing 5.9+ face for 20' to the belay, with a factor-2 consequence if the ledge doesn't slow you down. Bootied a 0.75 Camalot, though....
This is the going-up-the-corner-to-the-triangular-roof version mentioned in an old Rock & Ice article.
[2008 edit: All the way up the corner, yes. I heard that George Bracksieck had been told that a variation existed that went that way and insisted that it be noted in the article, despite no one's having any firsthand information on it. Just one among the many reasons to be leery of the old R&I mini-topos...]
Rob, are you talking about going up the corner and then traversing out at the fixed nut, or going all the way up the corner to its end and then ???I don't even recall what if anything noticable was up above that corner.
By eric whewell From: Boulder, CO Jul 15, 2005 rating: 5.10d
Classic. This route goes quickly for a competent team.
Option for those days that may be crowded, or during the hot season: We started down the gully at 3:00 pm, then headed up the route with light bivy sacks and pile jackets, Goretex etc in a small pack with a couple of cans of Chef Boy-R-Dee and canned peaches, etc. When we got to that big ledge halfway up, we bivvied (spacious for 2) then headed up next morning. We were in the shade the entire time and had no crowds. I've done it both ways. The bivy adds a nice dimension and feel to the climb.
By blakeherrington From: Bellingham, WA Jun 4, 2009 rating: 5.10d
What a route! I could believe it as the best in Colorado. So many pitches would be *** at a crag. However, I think it's more along the lines of grade III+ or IV-, a bivy is definitely not standard.
Adam Brink and I climbed this route last week. Our impressions:
-Simul climbing the first 300' is definitely the way to go.
- Retreating from this route would be epic! There are no fixed anchors and the traversing nature of the pitches would make it difficult, although I'm sure it's been done plenty of times before.
- We found the pitches before and after to be the crux. Both were well protected where it mattered (although the first 20' of the pitch after the traverse offers no pro). The harder sections involved making a few moves off of insecure fingerlocks/liebacks to bomber jams.
- I didn't lead the traverse, but still found it to be a serious undertaking! Not super hard, but runout and heady. My partner did it with a cool head, no problem, but I imagine that I would have taken a much longer time to commit had I been on the sharp end.
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