Mike Forshay climbing Ace in the Hole. Photo by Mo...
Description
Climb up the gully a few feet to the first bolt. Work your way onto the leaning arete and continue up and right. Move up the face to the crux (after the 5th bolt)and finish at the two bolt anchor. This is a fun route for leaders just getting into 5.10s.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 5, 2002
If you're just getting into the 10s, wear a helmet. The 1st 3-4 bolts leave you with grey matter splatter potential on that slab to your right. Nobody likes smearing over your grey.
Ratings are, by definition, subjective, but just to put in my two cents--I think this route is more fun and slightly easier than The 5th of July. I'd give it 5.9****. Side note: I'm 6'1" - 200lbs...which biases my perspective. --Excellent work on this crag, Richard!
Really fun climb if you're looking to get into leading 10's!! Shorter than 5th of July, and if you stay right it's easier than 10a. Stay under the clips until right below the 3rd bolt & it will be easier, too. If you move onto the face earlier, you're going to have a bit of trouble.
This one was harder than the 5th of July, in my humble opinion, but I liked it even better! I'm never sure how a 5.7 leader like me can make it up these routes, but damn they are fun!!
This is a nice climb that deserves more stars, particularly if 5th of July is rated at 4.5 stars. This climb is not much harder than 5th but you have to think a bit more at a couple of spots.
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Jun 18, 2006 rating: 5.10a
I climbed this and 5th on our way to the Wall of Justice. For all the spray that 5th gets, I thought this route was much more fun; cool pockets and pleasant moves. =)
By Justin Cantrall From: Smoulder, CO Jun 27, 2009 rating: 5.10-
It may be a little bit easier to move onto the face from the gully if you step over at or above the second bolt, but why? It is quite fun moving over from just at, or just below the first bolt after an easy clip, so don't cheat yourself of that pleasure and just commit! The handholds are pretty positive there, though they do require the leader a moment of airborne feet. Perhaps that was just me having fun with it. :) The moves above that are a slightly tricky, but those are the business and part of what makes this route 5.10.
Overall the route is fairly straightforward for a 10, probably good for aspiring 10 leaders yet still worthwhile (fun) for those solid at the grade.
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