Start as for twofers, on the left side of the gully underneath the large roof 35 feet up. Approach the roof, then follow the hand crack around the roof to the right. Follow up, and then move out left over the top of the roof.
Protection
Use long slings on the two trees, and drop them through a 1' wide slot that sets the rope up perfectly. Or a standard rack.
Nice route! This can be led with pretty good gear. I got in a blue Alien at the crux (the step-across move under the roof) and it was backed up with a medium stopper. It would probably be good not to fall on the next section which I thought was the mental crux. There's no gear available after said Alien until you've climbed up about five more feet up a steep face.
A nice variation to this fairly easy climb is to start just right on the slab make your way up to a ledge and traverse left just under the underhang of Twofers. If you do this variation, I give it a nice 5.8. Following the gully all the way up... 5.7. Ciao'
By Matt Gates From: Longmont, CO Nov 19, 2006 rating: 5.8
A number 1 or 2 Camalot works well in the hand crack under the roof. The step around seemed pretty thin as far as the feet go. After that, I sewed up the rest with Aliens (blue through red). The trees at the top make good anchors. Use them gently.
Happy Hour Crag
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