Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Ryan seconds Lower Right Ski Track, just past the ...
Description
This description is only for Lower Right Ski Track. Upper Right Ski Track is listed independently on this site due to the frequency with which people traverse on to it and skip Lower Right Ski Track. As they seem to be treated as separate climbs, I am listing them that way. However, I prefer long pitches and chose to climb the both in a single 60M+ pitch. This requires a 60 or 70M rope and a larger rack but is worth the time and effort.
On intersection Rock, there are three main cracks running diagonally up and left from the base. These are visible from the North side (from the Hidden Valley Campground) and are called, from right to left, Right Ski Track, Left Ski Track, and Half Track. These are plainly visible in the attached photograph.
Lower Right Ski Track is the Right-most of the three climbs, and starts as a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral. The crux comes about 20 or 25' from the ground at a bolt just below a bulge. Climb up the crack for a few easy moves and head upward and left. Clipping the bolt can be done from well below and right, and thus you will be well protected for a bit of time. The crux comes after you climb some short distance above the bolt, so a fall could produce a real lead-fall, not just a hang. This may potentially come complete with a considerable swing depending on what position you are in and how alert your belayer is, but severe injury seems unlikely.
After passing the crux, you will likely be standing in a stem at the bottom of a bulge. I was able to place a Camalot (#3, I believe) up into a pod in the dihedral prior to making one more hard move. This is an awkward stance to place from, but the choice is yours.
From there, continue up well protected and more moderate climbing to a small ledge that comes in from the right. Belay on this ledge (good gear up and left in the crack) and then walk off to the west, or continue up Upper Right Ski Track (5.5) to the summit.
Protection
The route is reasonably protected, but not so well that you can hang-dog the route. The crux is protected by a bolt and a few additional hard moves (when you are pumped)protect on hand-sized cams. All in all, take a single set of nuts, and a set of Camalots. A large piece (#4 cam or #10 hex) might be useful at the belay or if you intend to continue on Upper Right Ski Track.
Cool climb, maybe 3 stars and easily linked with the Upper ski track with a 60m rope. Pretty tough moves above the bolt...I'm more apt to go with a solid-10c grade, at least compared to other classics of the grade at J-Tree such as Clean and Jerk, Bearded Cabbage (if you're 6' tall), and Rubicon.
Above the bolt, you will find a pocket for your right hand....this pocket is really deep. Then reach out with your left hand and grab a hold that is hidden deep with your outstretched left hand. You'll know when you grab the correct hold. Pretty easy climb, just one little crux and the rest is a cakewalk.
Keep a tight belay at the crux, there is potential for ground fall if you're not paying attention. The bolt is solid, just make sure your belay is too.
Placing gear after the bolt and before the ledge would be an impressive feat - better to just pull through the couple of burly moves to safety. Past the ledge the climbing remains interesting, and pulling over the final overhang is fun. Definitely a route worth doing.
As a side note, the guidebook does list the crux move as being 5.10c.
I thought this was way, way easier then clean and jerk - a couple of moves on good solid holds comapred to something much more continuous and with harder moves.
I think Joe was having an 'off' moment.
EDIT: That exit shown in the picture titled 'sooo fun' was fantastic, airy and just made me smile. Soooooo gooood.
The climb can easily be done bottom to top in 1 long pitch. The Bolt protects the crux move well, and you can even get gear in as well. I got a #2 (or was it a #3) in before getting on top of the ledge, but at great effort. It would be easier to just pull through the move and get on the ledge. The climb is in the shade from mid-morning and very cold on winter days.
Intersection Rock
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