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Brass Balls 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary ? and
Page Views: 1,060
Submitted By: rockratrei on Nov 21, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Brass Balls topo

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Pitch 1 -(5.10) climb up over a bulge on overhanging water streaked rock and into the chimney (1 bolt protects the face) to a double bolt anchor
Pitch 1&2 - (5.9) variation start around the pillar to the right in the huge chasm (in the dark) work your way up and out of the chasm into a 4th class slot - continue up onto the black varnished face working up and right over a technical roof problem to the 2cd 2 bolt anchor in the chimney
Pitch 3 - (5.9) continue up the chimney to the 3rd double bolted anchor
Pitch 4 - more enjoyable climbing leads to the 4th anchor


Right of Spectrum - goes up the chasm where the 4 sets of bolted anchors are in the topp for Spectrum.



Photos of Brass Balls Slideshow Add Photo
Brass Balls, Red Rocks <br />Looking up towards the start ledge.  The route begins above the bulge in the foreground.
BETA PHOTO: Brass Balls, Red Rocks
Looking up towards the star...
Cassondra following on pitch 3.
Cassondra following on pitch 3.
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By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Mar 27, 2011

This route is quite fun and has a engaging mix of technical and strategic cruxes.

We did the alternate start(5.7ish?) up the chimney on the right side of the pillar, which avoids the .10d crux pitch. Took gear up to #5 cam. There is a place to place a #6 if you wish to haul one up, but we never felt runout because of not having one. Rap the route with double 60m's. There is loose rock, especially as you move beneath the overhang on P2, so be careful what you pull on.

It was a treat to climb this on a sunny Sunday during spring break but not have another soul around us despite being just around the corner from Birdland.

By Pete Bresciani
Mar 15, 2012

I believe Gary Fike and Don Burroughs did the first ascent.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Nov 28, 2012

Bolts on this one are less than stellar right now with the exception of the top two stations. I particularly like the use of the power drill to chip out channels for the hangerless chain/washer setup to sit flush. The mixed metal pro bolt setups on P1 leave a lot to be desired.

How much tougher would it have been to just use a hanger or three to make these stations legit? I guess chipping and mixing metals seemed like a better idea.

I'd suggest trying the 5.7 R chimney variation to the 1st pitch to drop the overall grade to stiff .9, I think that puts this route a lot closer to doable for Birdland folks looking for a second option on a crowded day. The 5 and 6 cams were very useful, the second pitch has some rottenness so heads up for sure, still very fun though.

Also forgot, 9-11 size hexes will work really well at a few places. One of those routes they really make sense on.

By Aaron S
Mar 27, 2014

This is a very fun route, well worth doing when the classics are getting mobbed (like right now). Both starts are good. The 5.7 chimney is pretty mellow, but might take some searching to find the best gear and path. The 10d start has fun climbing through two short and well protected cruxes.

They aren't listed here but there are two options for a 5th pitch. Either straight up the corner or up a varnished seam a few feet left of the belay.

Rapping from the top of pitch 5 with a single 70m was no problem.