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Long Canyon

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Long Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.54503, -109.65515 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 26, 2002
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Paying my respects to the late great Dan Osman ato...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Long Canyon is a little slice of sandstone heaven only a half hour drive from Moab. If you dig Indian Creek but get tired of waiting in line, check out this little gem. There are routes here that would get climbed hundreds of times a year if they were at Indian Creek, but in Long Canyon they retain an air of adventure and discovery. Splitters are the name of the game. The stone is high quality Wingate - just decide what size you want and you can find it, from desperate tips to menacing offwidth. Fret not, there are some top of the line hand cracks too.

The canyon offers two main areas, The Maverick Buttress, and The Shipyard. Maverick is better with a wider selection of routes and good shade. The Shipyard offers sun and a few good routes. There are also a number of very good climbs scattered about the canyon walls, many of which are not in any guide book so expoloration will reward the motivated. The canyon is huge and there is vast potential for new routes if you seek them out.

Bring a rack big enough to make any stripper jealous and some real beer from out of state. Free camping is readily available along the canyon floor and is generaly quiet and clean except for the occasional jeep drive by or desert-love-child beating their drum at 2 in the morning. The nearest facilities for water, ice and food are in Moab. A high clearance vechicle is recommended for the road up to Maverick Buttress but is not critical. Although the Wingate is of excellent quality, it is still sandstone and some of the lesser climbed routes hold dangerous loose rock, use caution, have fun.

Getting There 

Long Canyon is easy to find, it's right off Potash Road. From Moab drive North on US 191 to Potash Road. Follow the Colorado River towards the potash mine. Pass the Potash climbing area on your right and continue on until you see a sign for Jug Handle Arch on the left side of the road, which is about 15 miles from the junction of Potash Road and US 191. The arch is on the right side and is not obvious until you have passed the sign. Take your first right turn after the sign and you will be on Long Canyon Road which leads past The Ship Yard (park at the first campsite on the right) and continues up to some switch-backs and Maverick Buttress.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

78 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',37],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Long Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Long Canyon:
Hot Toddy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Maverick Buttress
Electronic Battleship   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   The Shipyard
Texas Two Step   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   Maverick Buttress
Program Director   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   Deadman's Buttress
Chopper   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   Deadman's Buttress
Round-Up   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Maverick Buttress
Tequila Sunrise   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Maverick Buttress
Nina   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   The Shipyard
Gunsmoke   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   Maverick Buttress
Mini Skirts And Halter Tops   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Shady Crag
Dragon's Lair   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Deadman's Buttress
Seventh Serpent   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Reptilian Wall
Done Lubin'   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Offwidth City
Peccadillo   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   Deadman's Buttress
Dawn of an Error   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   Deadman's Buttress
The Mayor   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Offwidth City
Happy Hunting Grounds   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 190'   Warrior Tower
Boot Hill   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Maverick Buttress
The Dark Passenger    5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   Deadman's Buttress
Torpedo Bay   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Shipyard
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Long Canyon

Featured Route For Long Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is Jeff leading the route.  You can see the g...

Round-Up 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Utah : Moab Area : ... : Maverick Buttress
Round-Up is about fifty to seventy-five feet to the climbers left from Texas Two Step (over, around and through some large boulders). The climb starts up a couple moves of suspect holds to parallel finger cracks. The right side takes green aliens. Establish yourself on the finger crack and make some bouldery moves (.11a) to gain the hand crack. Stroker hands eventually taper to .75-.5 camalot size at a horizontal break. Move up and right at the horizontal break continuing with hands to large...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Long Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cloudy day in Long
Cloudy day in Long
Rock Climbing Photo: Cliff in Long Canyon. Photo by Blitzo.
Cliff in Long Canyon. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Long Canyon
Long Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Good friends and good times. Camping near the top ...
Good friends and good times. Camping near the top ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great campsite at the top of Long Canyon. It gets ...
Great campsite at the top of Long Canyon. It gets ...
Rock Climbing Photo: 4/1/13 includes all of long canyon. please respect...
4/1/13 includes all of long canyon. please respect...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of Long canyon- Excellent camp s...
View from the top of Long canyon- Excellent camp s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Long Canyon Road winds up out of the Potash Basin ...
Long Canyon Road winds up out of the Potash Basin ...

Comments on Long Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 6, 2017
By Bryson Slothower
Mar 27, 2002
Some of the other developed areas in Long Canyon are; Deadman's Buttress, Off-Width City, Reptilian Wall, and Jug Handle Arch. Eric Bjornstad's "Desert Rock: Wall Street to San Rafel Swell" is the most comprehensive guide book
By Joe Collins
Nov 6, 2002
With the current state of the road up to Maverick Buttress, a high-clearance vehicle is definitely crucial. Also, the canyon is steep and narrow enough that there really aren't many good places to camp. The roadside spots on the Potash road are an option. Another option, especially if you have a low-clearence vehicle is to camp on the top of Island in the Sky and hike the one mile down Long Canyon to Maverick Buttress.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 4, 2003
no camping is allowed in long canyon and they do patrol it
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 11, 2004
As of 2004, Free camping is on top of the plateau, accessing Maverick from the North. The dirt road is almost as good as paved. The views are beautiful, and you're on BLM land if you are on the plateau (but not on it's very southern tip, which is part of the canyon).Furthermore, you'll have to walk 20 mns to go down to Maverick. An experienced 4WDriver can make it back up the loose, steep sandy road that separates the top of the plateau from the bottom of Maverick.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Oct 14, 2006
The recent rain (October 06) has all but wiped out the road. A cehicle with a short wheelbase and very high clearnace, or a rental car, is required to get more than a mile up the canyon. You might be able to reach Maverick from 313, but you really don't want to take your standard 4WD through the washouts from Potash Road.
By TomKingsbury
Dec 1, 2006
As for the washed out road: around Thanksgiving we were able to drive a stock Ford Ranger from Potash up to Maverick - no problemo....


By Mike Willig
Apr 9, 2007
Word of Caution....when the road gets a decent amount of rain on it, the dirt turns REALLY slick. I was going down the first switchback below Maverick at about 5mph and it was like trying to stop on ice.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Mar 24, 2009
Road condition update: 3/22/09 - Road is in good shape, passable to anything with 4 wheel drive (we saw a Subaru and Ford Escape). Also, there is NO CAMPING in Long Canyon. If you want to climb at Maverick Buttress, you can camp on top of the mesa above Long Canyon for free. Maps at show you must be a mile from the "main" roads in the area unless in a "designated site", but there aren't any of those, so camp a mile from the road, and stay away from the oil rigs.
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Dec 3, 2012
Drove up to maverick buttress the other day in my girlfriends toyota yaris. Didn't have any problems at all. had to drive pretty slow a lot of the way but made it all the way to where the boulder hangs over the road. So unless your in a smart car, you can probably make it maverick buttress without any serious problems.
By Carolyn
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2015
As of 11-1-15, the road to long canyon (from potash) is closed for rebuilding.
By Matthew Bernstein
Jan 2, 2017
What's the current state of the road from potash to Long Canyon? I drive a toyota yaris and was wondering if it could make it out there without getting too messed up
By BigNobody
From: all over, mostly Utah
Jan 5, 2017
A Yaris huh?
By BigNobody
From: all over, mostly Utah
Jan 6, 2017
Yeah, the dark side of sanity Ben. Something that eludes you :) Also I just thought it was an interesting choice of car to take off any pavement. God Speed young fella.

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