All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Long Canyon

First Switchback Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in First Switchback

L › R R › L A › Z

	Crock Pot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Dr. Yu T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Four Guitars and Piano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mother Ship, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	No More Tears T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Two Buck Chuck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Van Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,989 ft
GPS:	38.55038, -109.6855 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	1,677 total · 57/month
Shared By:	Mike Lewis on Nov 27, 2021
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This is a beautiful wall on the north side of Long Canyon a few hundred yards to the left (west) of the Forming Arch and a 1/4-1/2mile right (east) of the Reptilian Walls. There are single and multi-pitch splitter crack climbs or pretty high quality sandstone and no crowds whatsoever. Very quiet and serene. Excellent spot to get sun exposure on winter days. There are many routes here that are not in the available guidebooks (as of 11/2021). There are many hard routes that don't seem to have been freed yet. The wall faces primarily south, but some aspects face more Southeast.

Getting There

Drive up Long Canyon from Potash Rd (turn into the Jug Handle Arch Parking Area and keep going up the long dirt road). At 2 miles on the dirt road from Potash Rd, you will come to the first obvious switchback. Park right at the switchback. Choose your adventure to make your way up to the wall (15-30min); as of 11/2021 there is no established trail, but there are some cairns here and there as you find your way into the main drainage that comes down from the wall.