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Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Passenger , The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gin and Techtonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head Stack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Program Director T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Craig Luebben, Greg Murphy
Page Views: 1,751 total · 19/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jun 5, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Dragon's Lair is a very challenging 150' squeeze chimney. The start of the route is loose and chossy, but quickly turns into a classic and brutal splitter squeeze. The crux, besides endurance, is fitting through a difficult bulge. You'll know when you are at the crux when you can't get back out of it. Double rope rappel from 2 drilled baby angles.

Location

On the far right of "Dead Man's Buttress". Obvious from the road.

Protection

2x #4 BD cams, 1x #5 BD cams, 2x #6 BD cams, 2-3x green Bros, 1-3x blue Bros, 1-1x #9 Valley Giant is useful (and not luebben approved).

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Big Bert
Golden, Colorado
 
Big Bert   Golden, Colorado
 
Super rad route and must do! Bring the wide game and watch out for the loose blocks up top! A few small pieces for the bottom, 2x4's, 2x5's, 3x6's, 2x green bros and 2-3x blue bros sew it up really well. If you bring a VG #12, you are pretty much on top rope the last half of the route. Bring 3-5x blue bros if you want to sew it up and don't have a VG #9 or #12. Apr 23, 2017
Greg Cameron
5.11a
Greg Cameron  
5.11a
I must admit that I didn't see this as a particularly tight squeeze chimney. Also, you get plenty of rests on small stances. Don't get sucked in to going deep in the crack at any point in which you have a choice. Stay outside with potentially less protection but easier (wider) chimneying.

I brought extras, but only used 2 #6 Camalots and 1 #5 along with a Valley Giant (optional) and a couple of #3 Big Bros. Bring a few smaller cams for the pre-OW start. You'll probably want an additional Big Bro if you don't have the VG. Mar 15, 2017
Shanti
  5.11+
Shanti  
  5.11+
Leubben originally gave this route two stars but it's one of the coolest squeeze chimneys in the desert. Prepare to suffer, cry, hyperventilate and vomit in style through 120' of a squeeze comparable to Liquid Sky but tighter in some places. This route has rarely if ever seen a repeat as Pat and I found what was likely Leubben's original sling at the anchor in May 2010.

Consider laying off the cheeseburgers for a week before attempting to squeeze through this one. Jun 5, 2010