Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Kyle Copeland, Sue Kemp: April 9, 1987
Page Views: 2,621 total · 15/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 26, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Swedin-Ringle of Long Canyon. Narrowing splitter beginning with easy #6 camalots and decreasing all the way to tips. There is an optional intermediate anchor at 90 ft. that forces you to clip the chains in the middle of the crux wide fingers section. Going to the second set gives you a longer, more varied experience with a good stance to clip the anchors from.

Location Suggest change

The first classic-looking splitter encountered up canyon from the North Spur (The side canyon containing the Shipyard crag.) on the sunny side of Long Canyon at the Deadman's Buttress.

Protection Suggest change

Triple set of cams tips to #2 camalot with one #3 and an optional #6. if you're stopping at the first anchors you don't need anything smaller than #.5 Camalot.