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Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Passenger , The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gin and Techtonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head Stack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Program Director T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, Sue Kemp: April 9, 1987
Page Views: 1,293 total, 13/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 26, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Swedin-Ringle of Long Canyon. Narrowing splitter beginning with easy #6 camalots and decreasing all the way to tips. There is an optional intermediate anchor at 90 ft. that forces you to clip the chains in the middle of the crux wide fingers section. Going to the second set gives you a longer, more varied experience with a good stance to clip the anchors from.

Location

The first classic-looking splitter encountered up canyon from the North Spur (The side canyon containing the Shipyard crag.) on the sunny side of Long Canyon at the Deadman's Buttress.

Protection

Triple set of cams tips to #2 camalot with one #3 and an optional #6. if you're stopping at the first anchors you don't need anything smaller than #.5 Camalot.

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Brett Merlin
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Brett Merlin   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
You can lower all the way to the ground with a 70 meter from the top anchors. A smallish nut is nice right before the chains (maybe a #5 or 6 stopper...). I thought this route was great! Oct 30, 2017
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.12-
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.12-
pretty difficult getting just passed the first anchor, fight the pump to the chains. Pretty hard for an 11+ even with big fingers. Mar 28, 2015
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12-
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12-
Some hard climbing getting above the first anchor and then it eases up to the second anchor. Great route! May 7, 2013
LahDaBudz
moab, ut
  5.11+
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
  5.11+
classic thinning crack from big hands to fingers. highly recommended especially in spring or fall. there are 2 anchors. the higher one prob. adds another grade as it is fingers the rest of the way. Jan 15, 2010