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Routes in Deadman's Buttress
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Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chopper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dark Passenger, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fisticuffs T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Program Director T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.54832, -109.66055 |
| FA: | Kyle Copeland |
| Page Views: | 2,423 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | charley graham on Nov 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Very delicate and then burly, the two pitches of this Copeland masterpiece represent opposing ends of the Wingate spectrum of excellence. The upper section of the slab and stemming corner requires balance based more on faith than feasibility and then the mood changes to overhanging fists reminiscent of the crux of the Yosemite classic Freestone. Above lies an ample dose of great thin hands and the anchor.
Photos
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