Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Kyle Copeland
Page Views: 1,971 total · 13/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 20, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Very delicate and then burly, the two pitches of this Copeland masterpiece represent opposing ends of the Wingate spectrum of excellence. The upper section of the slab and stemming corner requires balance based more on faith than feasibility and then the mood changes to overhanging fists reminiscent of the crux of the Yosemite classic Freestone. Above lies an ample dose of great thin hands and the anchor.

Location

At the Deadman's Buttress on the north side of Long Canyon, a five minute walk to the right of Program Director. Chalk is Cheap is the only bolted route at the crag and the overhanging left-facing corner of the second pitch is very obvious. Descend via good bolted anchors.

Protection

Bring a single set of cams to red camalot and ten quickdraws for the mostly bolted fist pitch and many fist and thin hand sized pieces (with a couple cams of the sizes in between) for the big steep corner above.

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