Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Passenger , The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gin and Techtonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head Stack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Program Director T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kyle Copeland
Page Views: 1,261 total, 13/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 20, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Very delicate and then burly, the two pitches of this Copeland masterpiece represent opposing ends of the Wingate spectrum of excellence. The upper section of the slab and stemming corner requires balance based more on faith than feasibility and then the mood changes to overhanging fists reminiscent of the crux of the Yosemite classic Freestone. Above lies an ample dose of great thin hands and the anchor.

Location

At the Deadman's Buttress on the north side of Long Canyon, a five minute walk to the right of Program Director. Chalk is Cheap is the only bolted route at the crag and the overhanging left-facing corner of the second pitch is very obvious. Descend via good bolted anchors.

Protection

Bring a single set of cams to red camalot and ten quickdraws for the mostly bolted fist pitch and many fist and thin hand sized pieces (with a couple cams of the sizes in between) for the big steep corner above.

Photos

- No Photos -
Great climb! Neither my partner or I could touch the 5.12 face, but it's easy enough to pull through. The lower, 5.10 part of this pitch is very interesting and fun. The second pitch is burly. I'd call it 5.10+ overhanging hand and fist to 5.11- thin hands. Apr 22, 2014
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
glad to hear someone else thinks so...maybe a hold broke ?? felt like 5.12 A0

2nd pitch is amazing ! Apr 16, 2014
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
 
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
 
A good route but the first pitch seemed rather improbable, especially at 12-. May 7, 2013