All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Long Canyon > Deadman's Buttress

Program Director

Name: Program Director
Rating: 3.5

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Deadman's Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Chopper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Dark Passenger, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Program Director T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Type:	Trad, 190 ft (58 m)
FA:	K Cassidy, P Gallagher, E. Wiggans, '88
Page Views:	5,914 total · 24/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Oct 24, 2004
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

About .9 miles into Long canyon, on the right, you will see a striking series of crack and corner systems. There is a "loop" pull-off on the left side of the road. Hike slightly up-road and towards the rock on the right to intercept a trail system on the near side of a non-distinct approach ridge. I will probably find this, but sice the beginning of the trail is not obvious, you probably won't find it right away.

A distinguishing feature to aim for is a HUGE, square, black boulder sitting a few hundred feel below the wall, tipping at the edge of a small rotton cliff band below the climbing buttress. This rock is a few hundred meters below the base of Program Director.

Program Director can be identified as a clean, solid splitter with a slight offset, starting 30' up a 'mound' in a left-facing corner, and quickly opening up to a pleasant, solid crack-climb. The line zig-zags a little and the right side is offset (sticks out) about 6-10 inches in mmost places. Just as it gets enduro, a small jog in the crack seems to appear and give you a good resting foothold.

Great line, easier with bigger hands, will probably feel closer to 10+ for small hands. I had to fist-jam some of the moves. Tape or grind!

Rap from the anchor up top with two 60M ropes! No middle anchor is there.

Protection

A set of TCU's down to 1", with 2 cams each up to 2.5", then perhaps 4 #3's and 6 or more #3.5's. That is to lead it in a single pitch. If you like your cams closer than 10' to each other, take more 2.5-3.5" cams. two 60M ropes are required to descend (no middle anchor)