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Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Passenger , The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gin and Techtonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head Stack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Program Director T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: K Cassidy, P Gallagher, E. Wiggans, '88
Page Views: 3,659 total, 23/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 24, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

About .9 miles into Long canyon, on the right, you will see a striking series of crack and corner systems. There is a "loop" pull-off on the left side of the road. Hike slightly up-road and towards the rock on the right to intercept a trail syetem on the near side of a non-distinct approach ridge. I will probably find this, but sice the beginning of the trail is not obvious, you probably won't find it right away.

A distinguishing feature to aim for is a HUGE, square, black boulder sitting a few hundred feel below the wall, tipping at the edge of a small rotton cliff band below the climbing buttress. This rock is a few hundred meters below the base of Program Director.

Program director can be identified as a clean, solid splitter with a slight offset, starting 30' up a 'mound' in a left-facing corner, and quickly opening up to a pleasant, solid crack-climb. The line zig-zags a little and the right side is offset (sticks out) about 6-10 inches in mmost places. Just as it gets enduro, a small jog in the crack seems to appear and give you a good resting foothold.

Great line, easier with bigger hands, will probably feel closer to 10+ for small hands. I had to fist-jam some of the moves. Tape or grind!

Rap from the anchor up top with two 60M ropes! No middle anchor is there.

Protection

A set of TCU's down to 1", with 2 cams each up to 2.5", then perhaps 4 #3's and 6 or more #3.5's. That is to lead it in a single pitch. If you like your cams closer than 10' to each other, take more 2.5-3.5" cams. two 60M ropes are required to descend (no middle anchor)

Photos

#3 C4s protect the upper section well. You probably want at least one #4 for the very top (and can stuff one or two at various points along the way if you need to). Dec 7, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
^^^
Well, yeah, I'd think so. Where a #3 is too loose, a #4 C4 works. But that was not invented yet when I did the route. Or at least I didn't have any.

Truth be told, I did it walking two #3.5's and a single #3.8 HB Quadcam the whole way. But that is poor advice to be handing out, right? Most people want more pro. Sep 10, 2017
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Will #4 camalots work for this crack? Definitely not going to be locating 6 or 8 3.5s! Also I'm assuming the above rack suggestion actually means TCUs up to 1" rather than "down to"? Sep 10, 2017
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
 
John Braun   Hendersonville, NC
 
Don't let the rumblings of loose rock scare you. There's just a hollow-sounding flake and a loose block, both are easy to avoid. The anchor (if I remember correctly) was made of 2 modern bolts and an ancient star drive. It was solid. This climb is awesome! Dec 14, 2011
LahDaBudz
moab, ut
  5.10
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
  5.10
did this earlier last year, had heard the hype and it definatly lived up to its name. pure joyful awesomeness Jan 15, 2010
Beth84
Moab, UT
Beth84   Moab, UT
Yes, there is definitely a death block directly in line of the climb that must be cleaned... right below the splitter you really have to jam behind a fractured block that moves with light pressure. Route must be cleaned prior to climbing. Someone with more balls than me should do this so that we can all enjoy what looks like an awesome route!!! Dec 21, 2008
A friend mentioned that below the splitter there is a massive fracture of a flake in the white band of rock, please be aware of this! Oct 17, 2008
Brian Sinicki
  5.10c
Brian Sinicki  
  5.10c
I just did this route last weekend and it was FANTASTIC. It doesn't appear to get too much traffic. I cleaned a crap-load of crispy webbing off the less than perfect anchors. I would highly recommend at least one shiny new bolt to back up the piton and loose hanger from hell if you are going to be in the area on a public service mission. (That is if I don't get to it first...)

If you have 60m lines, you can belay in comfort from the ledges below the route without scrambling up too far.

If it weren't for the crap rock at the bottom and the belay-station death rocks hiding in the pod 30 feet up, it would have gotten 3 stars instead of two. Taken by itself, the splitter above all that nonsense was definitely 3 stars.

To my small hands and feet this route felt a bit more than 5.10 in places. "They" call Supercrack a 5.10 and I found this route to be more difficult and more sustained. May 31, 2005