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Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Passenger, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gin and Techtonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head Stack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Program Director T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
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Elevation: 4,694 ft
GPS: 38.545, -109.655 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,481 total · 73/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on May 12, 2002 with updates from geoff georges
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.

Getting There

Access the cliff by coming from the Shipyard crag or by parking 0.8 miles from the start of Long Canyon Road and ascending a drainage that has a tree near the top of it. The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Deadman's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Chopper
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Program Director
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Chasin' Skirt
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Peccadillo
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Dragon's Lair
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Gin and Techtonics
Trad 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 12
Dawn of an Error
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Chalk is Cheap
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Head Stack
Trad 2 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
 5
The Dark Passenger
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chopper
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Program Director
 23
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Chasin' Skirt
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Peccadillo
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Dragon's Lair
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Gin and Techtonics
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Dawn of an Error
 12
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Chalk is Cheap
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Head Stack
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Dark Passenger
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Deadman's Buttress »

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