Elevation: 4,694 ft
GPS: 38.548, -109.661 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,630 total · 134/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.

Getting There

Access the cliff by coming from the Shipyard crag or by parking 0.8 miles from the start of Long Canyon Road and ascending a drainage that has a tree near the top of it. The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.

15 Total Climbs

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Location: Deadman's Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Deadman's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Mocha Chocolate Yaya
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Chopper
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 31
Program Director
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 16
Chasin' Skirt
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
Peccadillo
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Dragon's Lair
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 9
Gin and Tectonics
Trad 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 24
Dawn of an Error
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Chalk is Cheap
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Head Stack
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mocha Chocolate Yaya
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chopper
 25
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Program Director
 31
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Chasin' Skirt
 16
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Peccadillo
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Dragon's Lair
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Gin and Tectonics
 9
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Dawn of an Error
 24
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Chalk is Cheap
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Head Stack
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Deadman's Buttress »

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