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Deadman's Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Deadman's Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Chopper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Program Director T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Elevation:	4,694 ft
GPS:	38.54832, -109.66055 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	36,538 total · 142/month
Shared By:	Brian Milhaupt on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.

Getting There

Access the cliff by coming from the Shipyard crag or by parking 0.8 miles from the start of Long Canyon Road and ascending a drainage that has a tree near the top of it. The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Deadman's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 12 ● Mocha Chocolate Yaya Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 33 ● Program Director Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 28 ● Chopper Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 17 ● Chasin' Skirt Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 11 ● Dragon's Lair Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 27 ● Dawn of an Error Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● Chalk is Cheap Trad, Sport 2 pitches