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Elevation: 4,694 ft 1,431 m
GPS: 38.54832, -109.66055
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,953 total · 137/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: Sheep Aware DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.

Getting There Suggest change

Access the cliff by coming from the Shipyard crag or by parking 0.8 miles from the start of Long Canyon Road and ascending a drainage that has a tree near the top of it. The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.

13 Total Climbs

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Location: Deadman's Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Deadman's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Mocha Chocolate Yaya
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 37
Program Director
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 32
Chopper
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 20
Chasin' Skirt
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
Dragon's Lair
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 31
Dawn of an Error
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Chalk is Cheap
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mocha Chocolate Yaya
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Program Director
 37
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Chopper
 32
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Chasin' Skirt
 20
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Dragon's Lair
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Dawn of an Error
 31
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Chalk is Cheap
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Deadman's Buttress »

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