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Deadman's Buttress Rock Climbing
Routes in Deadman's Buttress
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Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chopper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dark Passenger, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Program Director T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Elevation: | 4,694 ft | 1,431 m |
| GPS: |
38.54832, -109.66055 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 37,032 total · 132/month | |
| Shared By: | Brian Milhaupt on May 12, 2002 · Updates | |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.
Getting There
Access the cliff by coming from the Shipyard crag or by parking 0.8 miles from the start of Long Canyon Road and ascending a drainage that has a tree near the top of it. The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.
Classic Climbing Routes at Deadman's Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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