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Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Passenger, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gin and Techtonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head Stack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Program Director T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Topher Donahue, Drew Spaulding 1997
Page Views: 762 total · 7/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Oct 15, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This climb is a series of 3 cracks(as I recall, it's been a long time since I was there). 1st pitch starts in a right-facing corner which fades and steps right into a thin fingers up to hands at the anchor. The 2nd pitch is a Donahue Classic Splitter! Starts out hands tapering down to thin as the crack dissapears... reach right into the next crack. Tips, to thumb-stacks, to thin hands, to hands, to fists, to 6" up to the anchor. Great 2-pitch climb....


It's been so long since I've been there... Definitely up to the right in Long Caynon on the north side of the drainage. If someone can help with a more specific location, that would be great. I remember Topher pointing out an offwidth splitter to the left that he and Craig Leuben had climbed weeks prior. I think it is near Chopper.......?????


Full array of gear needed!


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