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Routes in Deadman's Buttress
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Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chopper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dark Passenger, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fisticuffs T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Program Director T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 38.54832, -109.66055 |
| FA: | Topher Donahue, Drew Spaulding 1997 |
| Page Views: | 1,708 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Spaulding on Oct 15, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This climb is a series of 3 cracks(as I recall, it's been a long time since I was there). 1st pitch starts in a right-facing corner which fades and steps right into a thin fingers up to hands at the anchor. The 2nd pitch is a Donahue Classic Splitter! Starts out hands tapering down to thin as the crack dissapears... reach right into the next crack. Tips, to thumb-stacks, to thin hands, to hands, to fists, to 6" up to the anchor. Great 2-pitch climb....
Location
It's been so long since I've been there... Definitely up to the right in Long Caynon on the north side of the drainage. If someone can help with a more specific location, that would be great. I remember Topher pointing out an offwidth splitter to the left that he and Craig Leuben had climbed weeks prior. I think it is near Chopper.......?????
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