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Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Passenger , The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gin and Techtonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head Stack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Program Director T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: Katy Cassidy, Carol Petrelli, Earl Wiggins 1988
Page Views: 1,893 total, 12/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 26, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Chopper is the left facing corner that the trail up to the cliff for Chalk is Cheap takes you to. It is 50 feet left of Chalk is Cheap and maybe two corner systems over.

Quite sandy, could be done in two pitches, but better as one. Rap with two ropes.

Protection

Triple set of cams to fists, extra wide hands, a #4 camalot.

Photos

John C
Moab
 
John C   Moab
 
There is now a second pitch to this route. "Topper" continues up the corner for another 60', making an abrupt transition from OW to fingers in a corner. Definitely bring a #5 and a couple finger pieces. A #6 would also not go unplaced. Jun 16, 2015
FA: Katy Cassidy, Carol Petrelli, Earl Wiggins, 1988 according to the AAJ. Nov 26, 2009
Just thought i'd add a few things to this one...
As of april 07, chopper was pretty much free of dust, sand, etc.
This is one of the BEST pitches in the canyon; perfect hands in a corner most of the way, with a good sized roof, some interesting wideness at the bottom, and tight at the top. The "chopper" seems solid, but beware of the inset hand crack set inside it:reefing on the block could be 'bad'
Rackwise-lotsa hands- maybe 4+ golds, a few blues, a few 3.5's, and two reds and a green for the top. If ya want, you can take a 4 or 4.5 for the slot at the bottom as well. Right side in makes it ALOT easier at the bottom
ENJOY Apr 18, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Hopefully my comments here will make finding a little easier, since the description above refers to a route that isn't in the database and etc...

About .9 miles into Long canyon, on the right, you will see a striking series of crack and corner systems. There is a "loop" pull-off on the left side of the road. Hike slightly up-road and towards the rock on the right to intercept a trail system on the near side of a non-distinct approach ridge. I will probably find this, but since the beginning of the trail is not obvious, you probably won't find it right away.

A distinguishing feature to aim for is a HUGE, square, black boulder sitting a few hundred feel below the wall, tipping at the edge of a small rotten cliff band below the climbing buttress. This rock is 100 meters PAST the beginning of Chopper. Chopper can be identified certainly by looking for a left-facing corner with a 4X2X1 meter flake wedged into the dihedral and ledge, about 20 meters, or 1/3 of the way up the climb. I presume this flake is the namesake of the climb (a big chopper?) but seems really secure. A few bolts are just two it's right, as if fir a belay, but not rigged well for that. They do make it nice & easy not to set pro behind the big flake though. There is one more bolt higher before you get back into the original corner system.

Chopper is a "would-be" line. It "would be" a classic when it isn't dirty. When the walls are covered in dust, not sand- really dry clay/silt that in some seasons runs down the wall with moisture, I suppose. The crack is mostly solid and jam-able. The anchor up top is solid and the webbing newly replaced.

Rack: I lead the route in a single pitch with a few hand sized pieces, than all the blue (#3) and Grey (#3.5) camalots I could muster. I wished I'd had a few more so I would not have been forced to walk them up or run it out. Take a full quiver.
You need 2x60M ropes to rap off, or 2x50M or even perhaps one 70M (? untested) would get you down if you want to stop at the mid route bolts and set webbing on those bolts for an anchor there. Presently, a few 2' slings were draped through them, but not really as an anchor. Looks like someone bailed. Oct 26, 2004