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The Shipyard Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Shipyard

L › R R › L A › Z

	Caution to the Wind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Diesel in the Tank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Electronic Battleship T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Night Vision T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Nina T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Seaworthy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Shipwrecked T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Stewing Over Art T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Supercavitator, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Torpedo Bay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Valjean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wheres the Rum? S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	4,287 ft	1,307 m
GPS:	38.55073, -109.65957 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	16,267 total · 56/month
Shared By:	Bryson Slothower on Mar 27, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

The Shipyard is a good crag near the entrance of Long Canyon. The area consists of a number of fine crack lines in the 5.10-5.12 range on excellent Wingate sandstone. This crag sits at the north end of a steep draw, the first side canyon on the right, and receives direct sunshine for most of the day. This is not a good option on hot days. The cliffs in this area are over 400' tall but currently very few routes exceed one pitch in length. Most routes have sandstone plaques at the base. Good routes include: Nina 10d, Electronic Battleship 10c, and Proudest Monkey a 3-pitch 12b.

Getting There

Drive West up Long Canyon Road from Potash Road. Park at a pullout at the first campsite on the right side of the road. Hike past the campsite and continue up the sandy draw on a faint cairn marked path. Cut northeast out of the draw when it steepens, and follow a scree slope to the base of the cliff. Walk north to locate the routes.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Shipyard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 15 ● Shipwrecked Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 34 ● Electronic Battleship Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 14 ● Diesel in the Tank Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 38 ● Nina Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 5 ● Seaworthy Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 14 ● Torpedo Bay Trad