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Routes in The Shipyard

Diesel in the Tank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electronic Battleship T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Night Vision T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nina T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seaworthy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shipwrecked T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercavitator, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Torpedo Bay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Description

The Shipyard is a good crag near the entrance of Long Canyon. The area consists of a number of fine crack lines in the 5.10-5.12 range on excellent Wingate sandstone. This crag sits at the north end of a steep draw, the first side canyon on the right, and receives direct sunshine for most of the day. This is not a good option on hot days. The cliffs in this area are over 400' tall but currently very few routes exceed one pitch in length. Most routes have sandstone plaques at the base. Good routes include: Nina 10d, Electronic Battleship 10c, and Proudest Monkey a 3-pitch 12b.
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

Drive West up Long Canyon Road from Potash Road. Park at a pullout at the first campsite on the right side of the road. Hike past the campsite and continue up the sandy draw on a faint cairn marked path. Cut northeast out of the draw when it steepens, and follow a scree slope to the base of the cliff. Walk north to locate the routes.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Shipyard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
no worries as long as no one got hurt. I thought the 'new' route is way more fun anyways. pulling the mantle to the two monopods I thought was the best part of the climb. May 11, 2011
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Erosion is part of us climbing... its par for the course. Dec 2, 2008
jhump  
The Route "Torpedo Bay", not listed on this site currently, is a hard finger and stacks route just right of Nina- maybe 50' tall. It is rated 12 something. This past weekend (Sunday) I pulled off the only good hold on the route- a tall spike of rock that served as a midpoint rest for the stacks to the finish. The rock I pulled off was about 6 inches thick, 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide. I thought I had ruined the route. However, it is clear this has happened in the past on this route. Discoloration is evident above the new scar indicating that at another time, 3 more feet had come off.

Currently, there is a good new edge where the bottom of the lost flake had been. Tiny mono finger jams exist to get past the scar and up to the finger stack section- 1 or 2 moves away. Small nuts are recommended to protect these tiny pods.

I am very sorry for altering this most excellent route. It did rain on Thursday, and I climbed Torpedo Bay on Sunday. Does anyone believe this is a contributing factor to the hold failing? Or, was this flexy spike a ticking timebomb waiting for a climber to overzealously pull it off?

Jeremy Dec 2, 2008

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