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Routes in The Shipyard

Diesel in the Tank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electronic Battleship T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Night Vision T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nina T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seaworthy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shipwrecked T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercavitator, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Torpedo Bay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,279 total, 17/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is 30' slightly uphill from Nina. It is characterized by a widening crack that eventually thins and angles slightly left to meet another crack for a stem near the visible anchors. Start with hands, which leads to large fists. I have big hands and could barely get enough friction with both fists jammed to pull myself up. The wide section narrows after 20', at which point a stem with some finger action will lead to the anchors. 60' A good climb for someone with a thin rack.

Protection

Camalots: 2 #2, 2 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 or 2 finger-size TCUs

Photos

Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10+
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10+
The wide middle was rattle fists but not quite offwidth for me. A good way to get worn out prior to the thin finish! Worth doing for sure. I had 2 #3.5 camalots and was thankful for them. Nov 24, 2012
Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
"old style" #4 BD worked great at crux, my new C4 was little tipped out. Nov 19, 2009
Josh3
Provo, Utah
Josh3   Provo, Utah
1#2 2#3's and 2#4's in camalot sizes are what I like to have for this one Oct 9, 2008
I would suggest bringing three or four #3.5 camalots or #4 Friends and maybe some other additional cams. The wide fist/off-fist section is very parallel and goes on for 20 feet. If you have small hands like me, reaching back in the crack won't help and it's hard to make upward progress with your feet slipping out, so the extra gear will be welcome. On top rope, I found it much easier to just lay back this section. Oct 8, 2002