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Routes in The Shipyard
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Caution to the Wind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Diesel in the Tank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Electronic Battleship T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Night Vision T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nina T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Seaworthy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shipwrecked T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Supercavitator, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Torpedo Bay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Valjean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,846 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bryson Slothower on Mar 27, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Nina is a 65 ft splitter in the back right corner of the Shipyard canyon as you approach from the road. It sits between Electronic Battleship (10.c), and Torpedo Bay (12.c), both of which are obvious cracks with anchors. Hike out of the draw and contour North along the cliff base, you are sure to find these three routes. Nina begins in a wide crack in a left facing corner. Jam fists to wide hands through a bulge for about 15 ft and climb good hands through the face above for another 25 ft. The crack gradually thins towards the top and is difficult thin hands at about 50 ft. It thins to fingers or liebacking for 10 ft (crux) and finishes on some good face holds below the anchor. I would give this route three stars if it were longer, but then again, I was glad that it was over when it was. Those with big mitts may be reduced to crying ninas pequenas on this one.
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