All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Long Canyon > Shipyard

Valjean

Name: Valjean
Rating: 3.0

5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in The Shipyard

L › R R › L A › Z

	Caution to the Wind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Diesel in the Tank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Electronic Battleship T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Night Vision T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Nina T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Seaworthy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Shipwrecked T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Stewing Over Art T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Supercavitator, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Torpedo Bay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Valjean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wheres the Rum? S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	38.55073, -109.65957
FA:	Kevin Heinrich, 2023
Page Views:	346 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Kevin Heinrich on Nov 13, 2023
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

A fun and steep adventure to an incredible corner. A bit dirty and crunchy in spots but a lot of work went into making this a "safe" and recommendable outing! Likely a terrible sandbag for sausage fingers :)

P0 5.6 10m - Chossy scramble to the ledge passing two bolts, teeter over left, possibly clipping the first bolt of P1 to the two-bolt anchor. You could link into P1 but it will stretch a 60m and your belayer will be under the loose start of P1. 2/3 bolts.

P1 5.10+ 50m - A looong and adventurous pitch of varied crack/corner climbing. Clip two bolts moving through a loose chimney, tread carefully, and obviously don't place gear in the choss. Continue up a #3s crack through a bulge (careful with rope on cam drag), stem up the corner passing a bolt, then continue through Flakes of Wrath-esque climbing (bolt), finish on a nice ledge with a 2 bolt rap anchor. 4 bolts, 2x .3-2, 3x 3, 1x 4 optional

P2 5.12-(?) 25m - The money. Powerful laybacking, tips locks, and insecure stemming (crux) lead to a rest and a bolt, the corner then leans over and finishes with a mantle into the crow's nest ledge. Belay from here or lower back to the P1 ledge/anchor. 2-3x .2, 4-5x .3, 3-4x .4, 1-2x .5, 2x .75, 1x 1, bolt.

Descent: Rappel from the P1 anchor all the way to the ground with two 60m ropes. Alternatively, have the first person rap on a single strand to the ground where they tie on the waiting tagline, the second person pulls the tag up and raps on both ropes.

Note: I did climb (aid solo) the route all the way to the rim but the rock quality seriously deteriorates and would have made the overall route worse and harder.

Location

The route is NOT at the main Shipyard area but actually more outside the canyon, closer to Jug Handle Arch. If facing up the "draw" towards Shipyard this route is to your right at the mouth of the draw ascending a large corner system.

Don't walk up the canyon towards Shipyard but back down the road toward jug handle arch 50 yards or so and head up the talus on a cairned trail on your left.