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Routes in The Shipyard
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Caution to the Wind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Diesel in the Tank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Electronic Battleship T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Night Vision T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nina T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Seaworthy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shipwrecked T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Supercavitator, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Torpedo Bay T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Valjean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | FA Brent Barghahn, Brent Mitchell FFA Brent Barghahn |
| Page Views: | 1,423 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Brent Barghahn on Apr 29, 2017 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A neat way to reach the taunting upper finger crack above the Torpedo Bay anchors. A beautiful steep finger splitter headwall.
At the top of Nina, clip the anchor and bust some quick compression moves to pull out right onto the slab. Clip a high bolt and step up to the hand rail. A long stem right gains the crack - establish a jam, drop in, and go! Powerful locks with almost no feet. Anchor with chains on the face left of the crack
At the top of Nina, clip the anchor and bust some quick compression moves to pull out right onto the slab. Clip a high bolt and step up to the hand rail. A long stem right gains the crack - establish a jam, drop in, and go! Powerful locks with almost no feet. Anchor with chains on the face left of the crack
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