Caution to the Wind

A rim route with no wide climbing, sporty movement, hard crack (crux), boulder problems, enduro climbing, great protection, exposure, WIND, and sun. What more do you want?

There are a couple of spots with some soft rock but the overall rock quality is good and the climbing makes up for it.

Big thanks to Sam Boyce for establishing the route at C1 and handing it to me on a silver platter for the FFA. I exclusively worked on the route alone so the grades are best guesses. 

Grades and pitch length approximate

P1 (5.10) - 80ft Climb up some blocky terrain into a large chimney, climb a left-facing corner past a bolt and through a hand crack before traversing down and right to the belay on bolts. 1 draw, 1x .4-#3, 2x .75-#2 

[traversing right midway on pitch past bolts under a roof and into a finger crack is an open project]

P2 (5.12) - 80ft Climb up the shallow right facing dihedral off the belay, as it narrows to tips climb out right to the arete like a goddamn hero (5.11) start clipping some bolts as you traverse right and then head up the right of two cracks. Switch cracks to the left (5.12) and finish up a handcrack to a small stance below a fierce-looking layback. Belay on gear (thin hand sizes?) or continue up the next short pitch. 4 draws, 1x .3-#2, 2x .5, 3-4x .75-#1.

P3 (5.12-) - 20ft Layback up the biting finger crack as it narrows. Move right into some pocketed holds with no feet (bouldery crux) THEN clip the bolt, and mantle up to a bolted anchor. 1 draw, 1x .3-.75

P4 (5.12-) - 120ft Enduro sporty pitch. Follow bolts up the corner supplementing with some gear. Deal with a couple of sandy spots low before entering some really awesome movement on great holds as the pump builds. [There is an extra bolt out left at one point, clip the one closer to the corner, will be obvious] At the top of the corner (crux) move left onto a sloping ledge and easily up and left to a massive ledge and bolted anchor. 13 draws, 1x .3 -.75

P5 (12-/11+?) - 40ft Follow bolts up and right, over a roof (crux) then up huecos and traverse right to the summit anchors! This pitch is not that great I must admit, tough boulder problem on small holds that kinda kept breaking, but you make it to the rim! I found the boulder problem quite hard as I was working the route alone but Chris Lile, who supported me on the FFA, has a big ape index and found some new beta. Bolted anchor. ~6 draws only.

Descent Rap to the ground using a 70m rope and the bolted stations.

The route is NOT at the main Shipyard area but actually more outside the canyon closer to Jug Handle Arch. If facing up the "draw" towards Shipyard this route is to your right at the mouth of the draw ascending a somewhat obvious pillar formation.

Don't walk up the canyon towards Shipyard but back down the road toward jug handle arch 50 yards or so and head up the talus on a cairned trail on your left.

3-4x .75-#1
2x .4-#2
1x .3,#3
13x Draws
70m Rope for rap