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Routes in Reptilian Wall

Cobra T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don Iguana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gecko T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No More Tears T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Seventh Serpent T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shed Your Skin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stealth Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triceratops Right T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed Splitter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wiggle 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,291 total, 21/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Nov 29, 2012 with updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

There may not be a lot of routes nearby but the Seventh Serpent is one of the classics of Long Canyon and worth the hike for one pitch. The route starts in a right facing corner with a short section of offwidth followed by hands and thin hands. About 25' up the corner ends and the crack wanders up the wall trending left through a few large pods. The climbing is varied with numerous rests, face holds and some short sections of splitter crack. Be cautious when getting to the anchor, some of the rock is soft and loose but not hard to climb around.

There is also a second pitch that was added later and supposedly clocks in somewhere in the 5.12 range. Looked like thin hands to fingers and it goes through a couple small roofs. Probably about 60' to 70' long with rap hangers for an anchor. Will update this information next time I go up to try it.

This route faces south but there is a large corner to its left so it gets some afternoon shade.

Location

Park on the right at a tight left hand switchback just before the Maverick Buttress. There is a faint trail leading up the right side of the wash that will get you through some cliff bands. Once on top head way left and just keep an eye out for the obvious crack. Approach by walking along the flat upper shelf; don't head up to the crag until you are beneath the climb

Protection

(6).75 & #1, (4)#2, (1)#3 & #4(old 4 is better) Camalots. Anchor has webbing but it should be replaced with some chain. I'll change it out next time I go up there unless someone else does it first.
Nate Sydnor   Moab
I thought it would be cool to add a story to this route that most people likely won't know. I went up to this area a few years ago with a crew of friends, which included Hayden Kennedy. We climbed a few pitches, and made our way to this. In Karl's book it says the extension is .12- I believe. Well, we sent Hayden up there to hang the rope, and up top it seemed that he was givin' it pretty hard; unusual for Hayden. He sent the pitch, on-sight, and when he came down (I can still hear his voice, RIP), he said something like "man, that was pretty full on for .12-!" and that was that. Well, we had two other legendary crushers in the crew that day; Herb Crimp and the Troutman. Herb, unbeknownst to many, has occasionally been know to TRash cracks like the Optimator and Learning to Fly, OFF THE COUCH. And Troutman, well let's just say he's also climbed a crack or two (sent the aforementioned cracks to get the rope up). Maybe they were off that day, but these guys could barely touch this route...
That brings me to the FA details. In Karl's book there is a picture of our friend Charlie Graham on the FA of the extension...However, it doesn't mention whether it was the FFA or not...sooooo...to the best of my knowledge, Herb calls Charlie and is like "What's up with this thing man? .12-?! Really?!" And then Charlie is like "Oh, I never freed that thing..." Therefor, to round out the story, we think it's possible that Hayden did the FFA of the extension, on-sight, and I would like to hear from anyone else who has climbed it to see if that's the case, and if it is indeed super duper hard or what. Hayden said maybe .12+ or a smidge harder...Regardless, that was a hilarious day of mega-top-roping, because Hayden had this ridiculous 7mm tagline that we were using to slingshot the pitch. What a remarkable character, and a true friend to so many. We miss you HK. May your spirit live on in us all, and may we experience at least a taste of your effortless talent and raw good will. Nov 11, 2017
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
 
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
 
An 80m is just barely long enough to link both pitches and come back down. Mar 18, 2016
Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
A rarely climbed Long Canyon classic. Sep 20, 2013