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Routes in Shady Crag

5/15/37 T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Finger Bang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jock Straps & Banana Hammocks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mini Skirts And Halter Tops T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
September Sweat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: K3 & K2
Page Views: 1,421 total, 37/month
Shared By: Karl kelley on Nov 2, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A fantastically fun route! The start of this left facing corner route was done years ago, I am not sure when or by whom. Mini Skirts and Halter Tops is an addition/continuation my son and I did in 2012. Start by climbing the old route with mostly small hands. Half way up this is a rest by stemming across to a leaning pillar. Continue up the corner passing the old belay. Shortly after, pass two bolts (technical crux) on your way to a shallow stem box. Continue up the box with fingers to off fingers eventually passing two more bolts and mantle on to a small belay ledge with a 2 bolt station. Stop here and belay or continue to make an amazingly long lead. Continue on the right side of the box with a short fingers section eventually going to hands to a sweet gold Camalot roofÂ… Great exposure!

Location

Obvious left facing corner behind a leaning pillar located in the middle of the crag.

Protection

.2 through #4 Camalots. Heaviest on Reds and Golds. Lots of shoulder slings especially if you are doing as one long pitch. Four draws for the bolts (if doing as one long pitch, use shoulder length slings for the last 2 bolts)
Rap the route from the top to the ground if you brought a tag line or rap from the top down to the original anchor and then to the ground with a single 70m

Photos

2 of the 4 bolts are no longer there. Now there are just 2 ugly holes. Thanks to whomever did this great community service. Bring a bunch of runners. May 20, 2017
Christian Eaton
Colorado
Christian Eaton   Colorado
Did the first pitch of this this past weekend. My buddy lead it as his first trad lead. First pitch goes at 5.11? Felt more like 5.9. Given the grade for the roof/second pitch? Oct 11, 2016
JeffL
Salt Lake City
JeffL   Salt Lake City
Such a rad route! Do it in one pitch for sure! Rack I'd take next time: .3, .4, 2x .5, 3x .75 and #1, 2x #2, and single 3 and 4. At least 6 slings, 3 double lengths, and a few draws. The roof is amazing, felt quite hard for 11a. The #2's in the roof are perfect, definitely no worries about it being tipped out.

This route seems like it would in the shade all day every day as it is in a dihedral with a pillar in front of it Jun 2, 2016
MaryH.
Carbondale, CO
MaryH.   Carbondale, CO
This route was super-enjoyable; the roof (which I led), was a bit harder for small hands- it's open #2 bd cams, but nonetheless, very fun. It was mice to do as 2 pitches, as well. May 9, 2015