Type: Trad
FA: Ruckman and Olson, 1988
Page Views: 4,033 total · 17/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Feb 28, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Park near the last campsite on the right. Shortly after this site there is a sign, "No camping beyond this point". Look up right for the most obvious approach where the talus breaks the lower cliffline. Once above the lower cliffline, hike left along the faint trail at the base of the rock for approximately 100 yards, looking for the first hand sized crack with flakes that jut left nearly 3/4 up the route. There is a plaque at the base. This is a desert classic, or should be. I felt like I encountered just about everything a desert crack has to offer; thin parts, steep parts, long sheer jamming, crazy flakes, and offwidthing. These two pitches could easily be combined into one spectacular 195' pitch. Pitch 1 5.10 hands, 45'. Pitch 2 is wide hands for 100', followed by flakes with good pro in the crack behind them. After the flakes is a thin bulge leading to a Crack of Fear like offwidth that will make you contemplate jumping for the anchors. Watch for a loose block just before the flakes. Two rope decent.

Protection

Sizes in BD Camalot: one #1, several #2, 8ish #3, 1 #4 for the short OW before the anchors

Photos