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Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Passenger , The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gin and Techtonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head Stack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Program Director T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
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Type: Trad
FA: Ruckman and Olson, 1988
Page Views: 3,068 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Feb 28, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Edit]

Park near the last campsite on the right. Shortly after this site there is a sign, "No camping beyond this point". Look up right for the most obvious approach where the talus breaks the lower cliffline. Once above the lower cliffline, hike left along the faint trail at the base of the rock for approximately 100 yards, looking for the first hand sized crack with flakes that jut left nearly 3/4 up the route. There is a plaque at the base. This is a desert classic, or should be. I felt like I encountered just about everything a desert crack has to offer; thin parts, steep parts, long sheer jamming, crazy flakes, and offwidthing. These two pitches could easily be combined into one spectacular 195' pitch. Pitch 1 5.10 hands, 45'. Pitch 2 is wide hands for 100', followed by flakes with good pro in the crack behind them. After the flakes is a thin bulge leading to a Crack of Fear like offwidth that will make you contemplate jumping for the anchors. Watch for a loose block just before the flakes. Two rope decent.

Protection [Edit]

Sizes in BD Camalot: one #1, several #2, 8ish #3, 1 #4 for the short OW before the anchors

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I'd add about 4 Red Bulls to the gear list for this awesome route! Apr 13, 2002
Finally got around to doing this awesome route. 5 stars for sure but there's a little sand and choss avoidance adventure as it doesn't get gang banged like the creek (thankfully). For finding it don't follow DR (it's technically correct but overly complicated directions). Simply set the odometer to 0 when turning onto long canyon from potash and go 1.2 miles. Pull over and look for an obvious orange talus slope/gully cutting through the chinle cliff bands. Go up this slope to the base and walk left a couple hundred yards and look for the plaque and a long wide hands splitter with flakes toward the top. It's a good cold weather route but does go in the shade early afternoon in Nov. One mega pitch is definitely the way to go. The 1st pitch is really short and only has only 1 old bolt. 8-10 blue camalots would be nice though it would take a couple 3.5 camalots in places. (3) gold, (1) red, and an old 4 or new 5. Classic. Dec 3, 2011
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11
10 #3's wouldn't go unused on this excellent route! Nov 6, 2013
Did this today and kinda wished I looked here first as doing it as a single pitch with only 3 #3s was slightly more than a bit run out. 6 or more would be nice to have.

Classic pitch though for sure. Nov 24, 2014

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