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Endless Wall

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BBQ Babies Cave 
Cirque, The 
Diamond Point 
Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress 
Fantasy Area 
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Flash Point Area 
Hellbound Area 
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Idol Point 
Jacob's Ladder Area 
Kaymoor Slabs 
Kline Wall 
Mungolian Wall, The 
Scream Seam Area 
Snake Buttress 
Undeserved Area, The 

Endless Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.05508, -81.05767 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 145,343
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Whisenhunt on Apr 10, 2007
Forecast:
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60°
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77° | 56°
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 200...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the crown jewel of all the crags on the New River. With almost 5 miles of unbroken cliff, breathtaking views, and as much exposure as you can get on a single pitch off the ground, it's easy to spend several days in a row here. There is everything from monster 100 foot bolted moderates to classic gear lines to downright nasty beasts that require you to be a mutant to climb them. Routes range from 50 to over 100 feet in length. Sun and shade can be found, along with a few select rainy day options- most of those require considerable skill, however.

Since the Endless Wall Trail has been voted number 1 hiking trail in a national park in the US it's getting a lot of traffic. With this traffic comes more issues. Especially parking. If you park along the road and your tires are touching the asphalt then you will get towed!

Getting There 

Take second right after bridge (heading north). Park at Fern Point trail head (bottom of hill about 1 mi. from road) or up at the Nuttall parking at the top of the hill past the Fern parking.

If you park at the Fern Point trail head you will hike in through the hemlock forest and cross a bridge (fern creek), go up hill and then come to a sign for climber's access on your right. Take that trail on the right and go down the ladders. This is Fern Point. Head left instead of right, follow the trail and the scenic views to reach the Honeymooner's ladder.

From the Nuttall parking you will walk through the hemlock forest, cross the bridge (fern creek), and then head up a hill. Eventually you will see a sign on the left side of the trail for climbing access. Take that trail and down the ladders to go to the Cirque.

Between the Fern Point and Cirque ladders is another set, the Honeymooner's ladders. Going down this set of ladders puts you dead in the middle of Endless wall at Snake Buttress.

From Fern Point to the Cirque is below. Climbers left to right.
Fern Point (ladder)
Fern Point - Party Buttress
Fern Cirque
Idol Point
Kaymoor Slabs
Flash Point Area
Diamond Point
Hellbound Area
Snake Buttress (ladder)
Scream Seam Area
Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress
Fantasy Area
The Undeserved Area
Kline Wall
Jacob's Ladder Area
The Mungolian Wall
Cirque (ladder)

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.2 miles from here

218 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',51],['3 Stars',91],['2 Stars',61],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',6],['5.8',6],['5.9',21],['5.10',40],['5.11',55],['5.12',62],['5.13',20],['>=5.14',3],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Endless Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Endless Wall:
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Fantasy Area
The Grafenburg Crack   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress
Fool Effect   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 120'   Kaymoor Slabs
The Upheaval   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 85'   Kaymoor Slabs
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Fantasy Area
With a Little Help from My Friends   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Kaymoor Slabs
Autum Fire   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Fern Point - Party Buttress
Party in My Mind   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Fern Point - Party Buttress
Remission   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Diamond Point
Strike A Scowl   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Diamond Point
Exoduster   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 45'   Fern Point - Party Buttress
Raging Waters   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Diamond Point
Legacy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Snake Buttress
Mellifluous   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Fern Point
Discombobulated   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Snake Buttress
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Fantasy Area
Leave it to Jesus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 80'   Diamond Point
Freaky Stylee   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Fern Point - Party Buttress
New World Order   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Snake Buttress
Bullet the New Sky   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Snake Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Endless Wall

Featured Route For Endless Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Aesthetica

Aesthetica 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : Fantasy Area
This route is outstanding! If you do 5.11c, do this route! Start by climbing straight up on vertical rock to reach a bulge. From here, diagonal up and right following very chalked holds aiming for a 1 ft wide ledge about 20 ft up from the bulge. This section is the crux. From this ledge continue up and right for a few moves and then it begins to diagonal up and left toward the shuts. Although the crux is over once you reach the ledge, there's still a move that will get your attention with t...[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Comments on Endless Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Carpenter
Apr 3, 2015
Endless wall is choss! It's not as big as they say it is, the rock is soft, the grades are soft, the climbs lack any sort thought-provoking movement. The routes are ugly and the rock is unaesthetic. The weather is gross and it's always crowded. Hikers throw their garbage down at you, and the locals...well they're a bunch of gumbyheaded ninnywaggers. Go to the Red instead, that's the only good spot in the whole region!
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 3, 2015
I completely and wholeheartedly support this statement! Thank you Matt for saying publicly what everyone knows to be true. The last sentence is particularly pertinent, and is the most solid advice I have ever heard and should be adhered to strictly.
By Zach Buecker
From: Lander, WY
Oct 27, 2015
If the lots are full do not park on the shoulder of Lansing-Edmond Rd. Last Saturday cars were being towed. Park at another lot or see Matt's comment above...
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 27, 2015
Yeah I was out there watching it, I think it was mostly hikers. You can park anywhere as long as your tires are not on the asphalt.
By Ted Pinson
From: Chicago, IL
May 28, 2016
Why do I get the impression you guys are just saying that so you'll have the wall to yourselves? :p

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