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Endless Wall

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BBQ Babies Cave 
Cirque, The 
Diamond Point 
Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress 
Fantasy Area 
Fern Cirque 
Fern Point 
Flash Point Area 
Hellbound Area 
Honeymooner's Area 
Idol Point 
Jacob's Ladder Area 
Kaymoor Slabs 
Kline Wall 
Mungolian Wall, The 
Party Buttress 
Scream Seam Area 
Snake Buttress 
Undeserved Area, The 

Endless Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,891'
Location: 38.05508, -81.05767 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 182,093
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Whisenhunt on Apr 10, 2007

72° | 43°

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73° | 52°
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Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 200...

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This is the crown jewel of all the crags on the New River. With almost 5 miles of unbroken cliff, breathtaking views, and as much exposure as you can get on a single pitch off the ground, it's easy to spend several days in a row here. There is everything from monster 100 foot bolted moderates to classic gear lines to downright nasty beasts that require you to be a mutant to climb them. Routes range from 50 to over 100 feet in length. Sun and shade can be found, along with a few select rainy day options- most of those require considerable skill, however.

Since the Endless Wall Trail has been voted number 1 hiking trail in a national park in the US it's getting a lot of traffic. With this traffic comes more issues. Especially parking. If you park along the road and your tires are touching the asphalt then you will get towed! Get there early to get a spot in one of the lots and carpool if possible.

Getting There 

Take second right after bridge (heading north). Park at Fern Point trail head (bottom of hill about 1 mi. from road) or up at the Nuttall parking at the top of the hill past the Fern parking.

If you park at the Fern Point trail head you will hike in through the hemlock forest and cross a bridge (fern creek), go up hill and then come to a sign for climber's access on your right. Take that trail on the right and go down the ladders. This is Fern Point. Head left instead of right, follow the trail and the scenic views to reach the Honeymooner's ladder.

From the Nuttall parking you will walk through the hemlock forest, cross the bridge (fern creek), and then head up a hill. Eventually you will see a sign on the left side of the trail for climbing access. Take that trail and down the ladders to go to the Cirque.

Between the Fern Point and Cirque ladders is another set, the Honeymooner's ladders. Going down this set of ladders puts you dead in the middle of Endless wall at Snake Buttress.

There are also a few convenient rappel stations that facilitate getting to a few areas a bit quicker. They are marked below and they are mentioned in more detail (with pictures) in the Williams guidebook.

From Fern Point to the Cirque is below. Climbers left to right.
Fern Point (ladder)
Fern Point - Party Buttress
Fern Cirque
Idol Point
Kaymoor Slabs
Flash Point Area
Diamond Point (rappel station)
Hellbound Area
Snake Buttress (ladder)
Scream Seam Area
Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress
Fantasy Area (rappel station just above the route Fantasy. 60 works barely, 70m preferred)
The Undeserved Area
Kline Wall
Jacob's Ladder Area
The Mungolian Wall
Cirque (ladder)

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.2 miles from here

221 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',48],['3 Stars',92],['2 Stars',67],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',3]

Classic Climbing Routes in Endless Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Endless Wall:
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Fantasy Area
The Upheaval   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 85'   Kaymoor Slabs
Fool Effect   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 120'   Kaymoor Slabs
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Fantasy Area
With a Little Help from My Friends   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Kaymoor Slabs
Autum Fire   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Party Buttress
Party in My Mind   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Party Buttress
Remission   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Diamond Point
Strike A Scowl   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Diamond Point
Exoduster   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 45'   Party Buttress
Can I Do It Till I Need Glasses   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Diamond Point
Raging Waters   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Diamond Point
Legacy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Snake Buttress
Mellifluous   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Fern Point
Discombobulated   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Snake Buttress
Leave it to Jesus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 80'   Diamond Point
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Fantasy Area
Freaky Stylee   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Party Buttress
New World Order   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Snake Buttress
Bullet the New Sky   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Snake Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Endless Wall

Featured Route For Endless Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Bullet the new sky!

Bullet the New Sky 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : Snake Buttress
One of the NRG's best 5.12 aretes, with a fairly short crux compared to many other Endless routes of the grade. Start in a sort of crack feature on the left side of the arete before doing a weird move up onto a small ledge (the original line started to the right; not many people do this start). The crux involves a very crimpy and sequential right traverse to and around the corner of the arete. After this, lots of 5.11 climbing to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Photos of Endless Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fern Creek bridge on the Fern Creek approach to En...
Fern Creek bridge on the Fern Creek approach to En...

Comments on Endless Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Carpenter
Apr 3, 2015
Endless wall is choss! It's not as big as they say it is, the rock is soft, the grades are soft, the climbs lack any sort thought-provoking movement. The routes are ugly and the rock is unaesthetic. The weather is gross and it's always crowded. Hikers throw their garbage down at you, and the locals...well they're a bunch of gumbyheaded ninnywaggers. Go to the Red instead, that's the only good spot in the whole region!
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 3, 2015
I completely and wholeheartedly support this statement! Thank you Matt for saying publicly what everyone knows to be true. The last sentence is particularly pertinent, and is the most solid advice I have ever heard and should be adhered to strictly.
By Zach Buecker
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 27, 2015
If the lots are full do not park on the shoulder of Lansing-Edmond Rd. Last Saturday cars were being towed. Park at another lot or see Matt's comment above...
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 27, 2015
Yeah I was out there watching it, I think it was mostly hikers. You can park anywhere as long as your tires are not on the asphalt.
By Ted Pinson
From: Chicago, IL
May 28, 2016
Why do I get the impression you guys are just saying that so you'll have the wall to yourselves? :p

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