Bob Gaines's Posts and Comments on Mountain Project

Bob Gaines

Joshua Tree, CA

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More About Bob Drop down

Member Since

Dec 1, 2001

Last Visit: 1 day ago

8,686 Points
Point Rank: #92 Details Drop down

12 Areas

180 pts - 15 each

425 Routes

4,250 pts - 10 each

818 Photos

4,090 pts - 5 each

0 Approach Trails

0 pts - 4 each

166 Page Improvements

166 pts - 1 each

Likes Trad, Sport, Tr

Other Interests

Besides climbing, my other passion is fly fishing. Check out my latest catches on Instagram @bgonthefly .

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More Info

I'm the author of Best Climbs Joshua Tree National Park and Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, featuring the most classic and favored routes from each area, available at Nomad Ventures climbing shop at Joshua Tree or Idyllwild. My latest instructional books (co-authored with John Long) are Climbing Anchors (4th Edition) and Climbing Anchors Field Guide (3rd Edition), now available on amazon.

Comments View All 347

Jan 5, 2026 Joshua Tree NP > … > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Ap… > Brownie Girl Dome > Hole in the Wall (5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b) Original topo ● Original topo with gear anchor. Now you can climb up and left to use the 2-bolt anchor for Grandmaster Flash. View Comment
Dec 16, 2025 Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Ap… > Brownie Girl Dome Buster Brown 5.10a ● I agree with Topher. It’s a real classic that deserves an upgrade. I placed the pin in 2008, and it’s not t… View Comment
Dec 16, 2025 Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Ap… > Brownie Girl Dome La-Di-Da 5.10a ● After some consensus, I changed my rating from 5.9 to 10a. (I had this one pretty wired when I did the FA!) View Comment
Nov 17, 2025 Joshua Tree NP > … 1 2 3 > Astro Domes > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome -… > Solid Gold (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b) Roger on Pitch Two (1997) ● That’s pitch two View Comment
Sep 19, 2025 Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (i) S Face > S Face - Left Side > Heathen (5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c) Heathen style. P3 just below the short crux ● P2 View Comment
Jul 17, 2025 Joshua Tree NP > … > Echo Rock Area > Little Hunk > Little Hunk - S… > SW Face Center (The S… Photo showing climbing routes and anchors on the left side of The Solarium on Little Hunk at Joshua Tree. Photo by Matt Kraai. ● I think Ben just slightly mis-marked the location of the anchor. The 2-bolt anchor that he depicts where al… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 644

General > General Climbing Reply: New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #43 Apr 28, 2026 My ‘ol buddy Bruce Pottinger founded Kinnaloa, which mainly produced T-shirts and chalk bags. He gave me this prototype crash pad in the mid 80’s. It’s… View Message
Gear > Lost and Found Found: Cam at Cap Rock on 4/23 Apr 23, 2026 Found a camming device at the top of Nutcracker on 4/23 View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #43 Apr 22, 2026 Bingo! View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #43 Apr 22, 2026 Me leading BITD (70’s) in the swami belt and hex days. Guess the route. (Hint: El Cap base route). View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #42 Apr 7, 2026 A couple more. . . Warren Harding hanger from the Nose Route, last pitch bolt ladder, 1958This one’s my favorite….Sling Swing Traverse, Tahquitz Rock. Chuck W… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #42 Apr 6, 2026 Before commercially made hangers….Chouinard hanger from Le Toit, Tahquitz Rock, first ascent 1960Royal Robbins hangers from El Camino Real, Tahquitz Rock, 1961Royal Robb… View Message

Route Scores View All 1,013

5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 8 ● Dance on Fire Trad Joshua Tree NP > … > Quail Springs A… > Negropolis Hillside \|…
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 144 ● Who's First Trad Joshua Tree NP > … 1 > Indian Cove CG… > Pixie Rock
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 2 ● Duncecap Trad Joshua Tree NP > … 1 2 > Cap Rock > Cap Rock - S Face
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R 32 ● Table of Contents Trad, Alpine 3 pitches Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Stately Pleasure Dome
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 14 ● Torturer's Apprentice Trad Joshua Tree NP > … 1 2 > Little Hunk - S… > SW Face Left (Trespas…
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A4 R 3 ● Flying Circus Trad, Aid 2 pitches Tahquitz & Suic… > … > (i) S Face > S Face - Left Side

● Dance on Fire

Joshua Tree NP > … > Quail Springs A… > Negropolis Hillside |…

Avg:	8
Bob:

5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
5.11b/c

● Who's First

Joshua Tree NP > … 1 > Indian Cove CG… > Pixie Rock

Avg:	144
Bob:

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad

● Duncecap

Joshua Tree NP > … 1 2 > Cap Rock > Cap Rock - S Face

Avg:	2
Bob:

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad

● Table of Contents

Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Stately Pleasure Dome

Avg:	32
Bob:

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches

● Torturer's Apprentice

Joshua Tree NP > … 1 2 > Little Hunk - S… > SW Face Left (Trespas…

Avg:	14
Bob:

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
5.10c PG13

● Flying Circus

Tahquitz & Suic… > … > (i) S Face > S Face - Left Side

Avg:	3
Bob:

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A4 R Trad, Aid 2 pitches

Bob Gaines

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Bob Gaines

Out There (0)

Contributions (1,421)

Community (2,004)

Comments View All 347

Forum Messages View All 644

Route Scores View All 1,013

Join the Community! It's FREE

Out There
(0)

Contributions
(1,421)

Community
(2,004)