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Routes in Pixie Rock

Lascivious Conduct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rhythm of the Heat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scream Chuck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silent but Deadly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Srepopers Roid TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swift and Silent TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tom's Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vaino's Lost in Pot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Who's First T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bill Squires and Craig Parsley, February 1975
Page Views: 4,477 total, 24/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 26, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Unprotected face climbing along scoops and edges in mottled rock gains a slanting hand-crack which starts about halfway up and leads to the top.

Despite the moderate grade the lack of protection at the bottom makes this a popular top-rope or solo and a route which is seldom led.

Location

Between Vaino's Lost in Pot and Rhythm of the Heat.

Protection

Gear to 3.5 inches
Royce Robertson
Joshua Tree, California
Royce Robertson   Joshua Tree, California
First ever B6 and on the same day the ABCA was formed (see comments: mountainproject.com/v/holds… and mountainproject.com/v/mad-r…)! There is an easy solo to the right of this route which is the quick way up and the climb up the back is a bit mellower. A favorite spot to introduce people to climbing and b-climbing! May 23, 2016
My first climb ever. Around 1987. 27 years later I'm still hooked to the gills. Jan 26, 2014
Rodger Raubach
  5.6 PG13
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6 PG13
This is a very fun climb, and is no "giveaway" at the grade. It's what I call an "Old School" 5.6. Highly recommended! It would be 4 stars if it were longer! Nov 11, 2013
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Best route of it's grade I've done in Josh. Excellent solo. Dec 7, 2010
MikeP
5.6 PG13
MikeP  
5.6 PG13
Scramble up a chimney on the north side of the rock to access the two top-rope bolts about 5' from the lip in a good position for this route. Get there early on weekends - groups tend to set up several TR anchors and homestead. Its a good route for new climbers - hard enough to be challenging but easy enough for them to get up it. Mar 14, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This is a great route and agreed a great solo.

I can see why it is so attractive for the TR group. Nice moves with a fun crack above; making it a great introduction to climbing.

Blute....you go up there without a rope? dang, you're BOLD! Feb 22, 2010
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
My favorite solo at Indian Cove. An exciting solo downclimb also. Sep 8, 2006