Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
La-Di-Da
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 7
votes
Routes in Brownie Girl Dome
|
|
Brown Eyed Girl T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Brown Eyed Girl, Direct Start T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Brown Sugar T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Brownie Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Brownie Points TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Buster Brown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Fire in the Hole TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Grandmaster Flash T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Hole in One TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Hole in the Wall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
James Brown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
La-Di-Da T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Sally Brown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Tige T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Zonker's Brownies T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 34.04918, -116.18499 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, January 2024 |
| Page Views: | 410 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Feb 1, 2024 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a long pitch of well-protected face climbing, with a great variety of moves. Begin with Brown Eyed Girl, Direct Start. At the fifth bolt, move diagonally up and left on a ramp to a 6th bolt, then climb up to two horizontal cracks (1 to 2-inch pro) on steeper rock. Move slightly right, then reach left to clip a 7th bolt and make tricky moves (5.10a) to step back left into a scoop. Clip the 8th bolt, then move left (5.9/10a), then up to a horizontal crack. (2-inch pro).
Move up and reach right to clip the 9th bolt, then climb a rounded arete, just right of a gully, past two more bolts to the top of a pillar to a 2-bolt anchor (110 feet).
Protection
11 bolts, plus a couple cams from 1 to 2 inches. 2-bolt anchor (110 feet).
I used a # .75 Camalot between bolts #6 and 7, and a # 1 Camalot between bolts #8 and 9.
Since it's such a long pitch, rope drag is an issue. For rope drag mitigation I used slings on bolts #4, 5, and 6, and a sling on the pro between bolts #8 and 9; quickdraws on everything else.
A 70-meter rope allows you to lower-off and comfortably belay for toproping from a good stance about 30 feet away from the cliff. A 60-meter rope comes up a bit short when lowering with the rope clipped through all the gear, but you can rap or TR with a 60 meter rope with a just a few feet of rope on the ground. Remember to "close the system" and tie a knot on the end of your rope!
2 Comments